The market for eye contour products grows 9.5%.

It is one of the most delicate areas of our face: the skin around the eyes is up to four times thinner than that of the rest of the body, has few sebaceous glands and is subject to about 10,000 blinks a day. These characteristics make it delicate and vulnerable, requiring specific care and attention. It is important to start caring for it from a young age, as soon as the first signs of ageing appear, because with time they tend to consolidate, manifesting imperfections such as the dreaded crow's feet. "These wrinkles are accentuated by the constant, voluntary and involuntary movement of the eye muscles and are influenced by genetic factors, as well as by external factors and incorrect habits," says Dr Alessandra Vasselli, cosmetologist and member of the AIDECO (Italian Association of Dermatology and Cosmetology) steering committee. Harmful behaviours, such as excessive exposure to the sun without adequate protection, smoking, stress, lack of sleep, an unbalanced diet, alcohol abuse and even inappropriate cleansing, have a negative impact on the eye contour. In addition to crow's feet, puffiness and bags can appear in both the upper and lower eyelids. Common blemishes also include dark circles under the eyes, often due to fatigue, stress, anxiety and lack of rest. This delicate area can also be prone to irritation and allergies, making it essential to use cosmetics with a maximum tolerability profile to minimise the risk of allergic reactions, sensitisation and irritation'.

The eye contour product segment is worth about 170 million euro in Italy - about 10% of the total consumption of skincare products - and is growing by 9.5%, demonstrating the potential it has on the market. And cosmetic companies are responding with launches of increasingly hi-tech and effective novelties.

It is advisable to use a small amount of product, tapping it gently with the fingers on the eye area both in the morning and in the evening. The cosmetic should have a moisturising, protective and anti-ageing action in order to treat the area and counteract micro-wrinkles. "The textures of creams for the eye contour are generally light emulsions, serums or gels, which are ideal for this delicate area as they offer a velvety, non-greasy effect," continues Vasselli. "Many products are offered in 'roll-on' format, equipped with a metal sphere that, in addition to facilitating application, offer a pleasant massage that stimulates the microcirculation".

Multi-step skincare routines involving the layering of numerous products are promoted online. However, not all cosmetics can be combined indiscriminately, as some active ingredients are not compatible with each other or are not effective for every skin type. "It is essential to learn how to build a correct and personalised skincare routine, based on a few essential steps: proper cleansing, moisturising adapted to your skin type and sun protection, which is always necessary when you are exposed to UV rays and beyond," the cosmetologist continues. "One of the most common mistakes is the use of cosmetics that are not suitable for one's skin type. Many consumers choose products following word of mouth or the trends of the moment, but risk results that are far from their initial expectations. Every person has a unique skin biotype, and in order to maintain healthy skin, it is essential to choose cosmetics according to their specific characteristics. Even reversing the steps of the beauty routine or neglecting cleansing can become a problem. For example, a cleanser that is too aggressive or unsuitable may not clean the skin effectively or may dry it out, excessively removing the hydrolipidic film that protects it from external aggression.

Skincare brands have intensified research into specific formulas for this delicate area, introducing light textures, but rich in active ingredients such as peptides, antioxidants, retinol and hyaluronic acid, ideal for improving elasticity and hydration. The Maison Sisley has developed Supremÿa La Nuit Le Grand Soin Yeux Anti-Âge, an eye cream that works at night to restore the beauty of the eyes. It contains the new Complexe Régénération Fondamentale, a mix of powerful ingredients of natural origin. It is sold together with a zamac massage device designed to act on different areas of the eye contour. Sensai has just launched Ultimate The Eye Cream. Like the entire Ultimate line, the formula is enriched with Sakura Eternal Complex and two other precious ingredients, Yuzu Extract and Bukuryo Extract. These ingredients act on typical eye contour problems such as puffiness and dark circles, revitalising the eyes. On the other hand, an innovative retinol derivative and a biomimetic tetrapeptide are used in INSÌUM's new product, Absolute Revitalising Eye Cream, created to strengthen the three natural skin barriers (mechanical, immunological and microbiological) around the eyes. Finally, the research laboratories of Professor Augustinus Bader, have developed Rich Eye Cream, a rich formula using TFC8® technology that supports skin repair principles combined with active ingredients, such as wild root extract, to firm and lift the eye area.