The goblet loses its degrees, not its pleasure. Wellness becomes gourmand
Between cold-pressed, fermented juices and champagne, the zero-alcohol offer is expanding and starred restaurants are proposing dedicated pairing.
by Barbara Sgarzi
The dream of having, intact, perfumes, aromas and perfect pairings even with starred restaurant dishes. Without alcohol. Reconciling taste and sensations with NoLo, no or low alcohol drinks seemed impossible. But, thanks also to a growing demand, in fine dining restaurants the alternatives are multiplying, as are the dedicated pairings. It is no longer just a matter of detox: the trend towards alternative drinks seems unstoppable and is driven by young people, who are more sensitive to issues of well-being and fitness. Recent data say that a quarter of 25-35 year olds never buy alcohol and 75 per cent of young people consume it in moderation or practice zebra striping, the alternation between alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks in the same evening. At the same time, production techniques such as membrane, a molecular filter to remove alcohol while preserving aromas and flavours, are improving. And today, the NoLo panorama is joined by zero champagne.
France's wine savoir-faire at zero alcohol: squaring the circle comes with French Bloom, created by Maggie Frerejean-Tait tinger and Constance Jablonski, the former former director of the Michelin Guide and wife of Rodolphe Frerejean-Taittinger, who gave access to the maison's know-how and vines; the latter, a former supermodel. "Ten years ago, nobody believed it was possible to create high quality non-alcoholic wine," recalls Maggie Frerejean-Taittinger who started experimenting when, pregnant, she could not drink. The latest addition to the collection, which also includes a precious vintage cuvée, is the Extra Brut. Zero sugar, 100 per cent organic Chardonnay partially matured in oak barrels and distilled three times to remove the alcohol gently, retaining aromas and minerality.
An alcohol-free rewarded by an investment from Lvmh, which acquired a minority stake in the company. Even the pioneer of dealcolate in Italia, Martin Foradori Hofstätter, has launched a high-end alternative: Dr. Fischer Zero Riesling Sparkling, from Riesling Kabinett wine, retains the varietal aromas; perfect for aperitifs and Asian cuisine. In the same vein, Lea Winery from Friuli has created a complete range of alcohol-free wines with its Franc Lizêr line.
Certified organic grapes for Blanc de Blancs and Rosé sparkling wines, especially the Opale, which goes well with fish, soft cheeses and vegan soups, and still whites and reds. Montelvini mixes fine and aromatic white grapes for its 0% Alcohol Free Sparkling, with its fresh, flowery aroma, and the classic Prosecco is also a must, with Mionetto's alcohol-free and the recent debut of the non-alcoholic sparkling wine Purø, launched by Valdo to mark the winery's 100th anniversary.
While some temples of fine dining, such as Disfrutar in Barcelona or Vito Mollica's Atto in Florence, have long had alcohol-free wines on their menus, other large restaurants prefer, for the time being, to rely on jus and fermented products. As does Jessica Rocchi, restaurant manager and chef sommelier at the bistellato Andrea Aprea in Milan: 'The path of juices and extracts is more consistent with our philosophy in the kitchen. For the three tasting menus, we propose as many non-alcoholic beverage routes: cold extractions of fruit and vegetables using modern techniques, such as ultrasound, osmosis, vacuum". For example? 'We served a date extract with coffee, a blend of five peppers and fig leaf powder. It's a world yet to be explored'. Like that of infusions: 'We buy them from a small artisan producer, following seasonality. We have also created our own kvass, an Eastern European drink made by fermenting bread with cane sugar, molasses and a blend of vinegars. Sparkling and pleasant'. Alessio Bricoli, head sommelier of the Michelin-starred Imàgo Hassler in Rome, agrees: 'Every evening, around 20 per cent of customers ask for a non-alcoholic pairing. We have a homemade line of artisanal juices and extractions, used for real pathways by the glass'. Between mandarin, basil, tomato, melon and 24-hour infusions with fresh fruit, each dish also finds its match in mocktails, mixed with soda and gingerale. With some added complexity: "It takes more time and attention than choosing wine, because the pairing depends on the fruit in season," he explains. Among the novelties, Van Nahmen's Sparkling Juicy Teas non-alcoholic drinks with rare ingredients will be presented soon, with a pairing designed by Carlo Cracco: Darjeeling and rhubarb, white tea and Tahitian vanilla processed in purity, without concentrates or additives. The trend does not escape celebrities: Robbie Williams invests in zero Heaps Normal beer, Katy Perry signs wellness drinks De Soi, Kylie Minogue launched Sparkling Rosé 0% made from grapes and Chinese tea. In Italia, Luca Argentero debuted Sodamore with the white Whitelover.
