Holidaying on the tracks of myth

It's raining cats and dogs at Paris' Bercy station, but that doesn't stop, on the contrary, a sumptuous and well thought-out welcome. From the platform next to ours, the mobile phones of passengers on other trains are ringing off the hook (a constant in all the stations where we will be stopping) and, in any case, the livery of the train, the legendary Venice Simplon Orient Express - now owned by Belmond (luxury travel and hotels in the hands of LVMH) -, that of the staff, the tone of blue and the warmth of the wood that immediately take you back to a past of legend and charm, are something irresistible.

The destination is Pompeii, more than 24 hours later, and this is the first time the trip has been made: the call is for 'villeggiatura', a historical notion of an intelligent holiday that needs to be refreshed; slowness and indulgence in the pleasures that provide opportunities for culture and growth. The invitation is extended to us along with a handful of magazines, influencers and major international newspapers: it is clear that the tale of such a journey cannot fail to pass through ink and print in a synergy if you like old-fashioned but which seems to find a number of points of contact between intentions and achievements. On board, the atmosphere is already exceptional: a dedicated steward, who will follow you throughout the journey, has already put the champagne on ice: off you go and uncork it. The carriages are refurbished in total respect for the glory of yesteryear; decorative details chase each other, echoes of the 1920s and 1930s glamour travel, the welcome 'inconveniences' that we may no longer be used to and which the train turns on its head. The long journey times (one night on board) are filled with reading (there is a book with stories by writers who have already had the experience), no murder and a lot of pampering: frequent libations, with lunches and dinners - always required, consistently, the dress - excellent 'terrestrial' restaurant level. Forced cohabitation, in close contact with other travellers, produces a surprise: having ditched the mobile phones, we finally talk to real humans. A community is formed: we find out what destinies and desires have led a hundred or so people to meet on a train that will take them on this 2.0 'holiday'. Excellent cocktails, piano bars, those who sing and those who smile, the overnight stop in Asti closes a fabulous day amidst the voluptuousness of the Cubans (smoked on the floor!). The train staff: professionals accustomed to recognising and accommodating customers' requests before they are expressed.

The arrival in Pompeii, VSOE's unprecedented destination, brings the possibility of a visit to the excavations with a private guide (and a greeting from the director). Belmond has been supporting archaeological research activities for years and, for those disembarking from the train, being able to wander through the excavations away from the madding crowd (after all, it is almost closing time for the site) is quite a privilege. The enchantment of the streets and houses of Pompeii remains inimitable. In the evening, one arrives at the Caruso in Ravello, a hotel in the chain of superb class and just as much history, with the desire to rest mixed with the awareness of a magical experience. At the Caruso (two nights in the package), one can invent other activities, from a painting lesson to a boat trip or a visit to the lemon houses, or stay by the pool (one of the most beautiful infinity pools in the world, with breathtaking views of the coastline), and of course the food remains a great ace up the organisers' sleeve. The gala dinner on the second night ends with the twist of a huge cake in the form of a train, I won't even tell you what it looks like. The luxury of the experience is obvious, but not tacky, the cultural dimension present and enhanced. Of course it is a mini-vacation not for everyone, but it is a 'once in a lifetime' trip. Many are the Americans who have accompanied us, all agreeing that the formula smells of old Europe, made in Italy, history and charm: a dream on the tracks of the lost civilisation of conversation, the celebration of slowness and good living. A type of travel and slow tourism (other operators propose similar formulas) that is gaining ground and has excellence as its destination. This time it was achieved in all aspects and no one paid much attention to the clouds and rain. As they say: wet journey, lucky journey. Wasn't it just like that? I know, I know, but we understood each other.