The lovely surprise at Palazzo Margherita in Bernalda

Dua Lipa has only just left, and already enquiries and bookings at Palazzo Margherita have skyrocketed. Guests are clamouring for the room with the frescoed ceiling where the singer was photographed during her road trip honeymoon with her new husband, the English actor Callum Turner. A few days later, Rose Gray, a rising star of British electro-pop, arrived with her new boyfriend Harris Dickinson, a rising star of the cinema. No gossip – once again, they’ve left plenty of clues, posting stories about their stay on their social media. Just like everyone else does.

It seems that, all of a sudden, everyone wants to go to Bernalda, a small village in Basilicata that’s just over half an hour from Matera and just under half an hour from the Ionian Sea. Word of mouth works well anywhere, but why do celebrities love this little corner of southern Italia so much, when it’s certainly not the most glamorous? Simple: Palazzo Margherita belongs to Francis Ford Coppola, who bought it in 2004 to put down roots once more in the village from which his grandfather Agostino had emigrated at the start of the 20th century to pursue the American dream. In 2012, once the restoration work and interior design by the French designer Jacques Grange were complete, the palace opened as a hotel – when the ten rooms aren’t occupied by the children, friends and relatives of the director of *The Godfather* and *Apocalypse Now*. The Coppola family, which owns a group of resorts across North, Central and South America, is very fond of Bernalda. Francis spends long periods there, whilst Sofia and Roman are frequent visitors.

From the outside, it’s almost difficult to spot the house, whose elegance is in keeping with the simplicity of the surroundings. And the nameplate is barely visible, hidden behind the foliage of the trees. Next to it are the parasols and tables of a café. With some hesitation, you ring the bell, and when the grey front door is opened, a whole new world unfolds.

There is none of the usual five-star opulence. Palazzo Margherita is, above all, a home cherished by its owners. The courtyard with its bougainvillea and orange parasols is a snapshot that stays with you. Everything has been left as it was: the building itself, the floors, the marbled walls and the ceiling frescoes. The atmosphere is lived-in and pleasant. The lounge, on request, becomes a small private cinema, where you choose the film – mostly old Italian films and those by Coppola (against his will) – and the time. Other guests are welcome to join in.

It goes without saying that the rooms are all different, and there’s no point trying to decide which is the most beautiful, because each one has something special that the others don’t. The Roman, for example, in Art Deco style, is spacious and light, with a terrace where you can spend the whole day in peace. The pace is laid-back. There’s a lush garden – an unexpected surprise. And, behind a hedge, the swimming pool, surrounded by greenery and contrasting orange parasols. Breakfast is served in the courtyard with homemade cakes, cheeses and cured meats from Basilicata. You can enjoy pizza (the ‘Sofia’ is delicious), and the menu is traditional, featuring classic flavours worth discovering, such as the quicker lunch options including spaghetti with crusco peppers or the famous mussels from nearby Taranto. The bar with tables outside is called Cinecittà, and inside there are portraits of actors, directors, screenwriters and musicians who have worked in the legendary Roman studios. You look at them, and they look back at you, whilst you sip a refreshing bergamot granita with pomegranate juice, the house speciality. Every Friday evening, for guests who wish to join in, there’s a barbecue, featuring veal sausage, spare ribs and ‘caciocavallo impiccato’ cheese that melts over the embers, just like raclette. And everyone eats together at a large, international-style table, with the manager, Rossella De Filippo, among the guests.