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December's new 24 Hours: the biggest complications in the smallest space

Mechanical masterpieces, unique pieces, limited editions, novelties and great myths, from Ayrton Senna to Mademoiselle Coco: the world of watchmaking under the microscope.

by Editors

2' min read

2' min read

he new issue of 24 Hours has as its main focus watches with complications, which have always been the peak of that fascinating mechanical universe enclosed in a few millimetres of diameter, to be worn on the wrist.

It starts with the cover story, starring Audemars Piguet and its Royal Oak Concept Chronograph Rattrapante GMT Gran Data, which not only features complications, but also adds a new and innovative proprietary forged carbon called CFT carbon for the case.

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We continue with Patek Philippe's new Cubitus collection with its distinctive square shape: among the first three models launched, one has a large date, instant day and moon phase display. Bulgari released two models with sound complications, while Iwc presented the Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night with a spherical day/night function display and Blancpain unveiled a red gold version with a green dial of the Villeret Tourbillon Carrousel.

With 63 complications, the most complicated mechanical watch in the world is the pocket model Les Cabinotiers - The Berkley Grand Complication, which Vacheron Constantin created in a single copy for one of its collectors. Joining Chanel's haute horlogerie offerings is the J12 Couture Workshop Automaton Caliber 6, the maison's first timepiece to feature an automaton (it represents the figure of Mademoiselle Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel) and is animated by a new manufacture calibre. The myth of Ayrton Senna continues with Tag Heuer's latest limited edition dedicated watch: the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Senna. And again, a gallery with nine complicated models made by A. Lange & Söhne, Breguet, Panerai, Chopard, F.P. Journe, Richard Mille, Breitling, Montblanc and Baume & Mercier.

The interviews to be read in this 24 Hours are with sailing legend Paul Cayard, whom we met during the days he was competing in the last Rolex Swan Cup in Porto Cervo, and with the multifaceted designer who in 2025 will be the artistic director of the London Design Biennale, the Englishman Samuel Ross: among his latest works, a special watch made with Hublot. Then, a tour of the birthplace of the Bioceramic Moonswatch by Swatch x Omega and the Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms by Blancpain x Swatch, two great successes of the last few years, and to discover the new design of the Masterlink collection by Gerald Charles.

For precious watches, a focus on the Reflection de Cartier collection and Omega's new Speedmaster 38 mm. Space is also given to smartwatches, the latest and most advanced fēnix 8 by Garmin. Lastly, the journey among Italy's most important boutiques makes a stop in Milan at GMT - Great Masters of Time specialising in independent brands.

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