The new face of Monte Carlo, the principality of the sweetness of life

Monaco seems to exist to satisfy a need for lightness and security that we all, especially these days, yearn for. Wars and hostilities are far away in its international bubble of High and Ultra net worth individuals (the richest people on the planet), futuristic skyscrapers and fabulous cars. The principality on the French Riviera seems rather committed to building a country where everyone can live safely (there is a policeman for every 75 inhabitants and a 24-hour video surveillance system), in a state-of-the-art urban environment in terms of architecture and services, and in a protected natural environment. This sort of Hong Kong in miniature, with a port capable of accommodating superyachts and a road network that is also a Formula 1 circuit, and with objective geographical limitations, has found an outlet on a platform on the sea where, in November, six months ahead of time, a new eco-district - Mareterra - will be inaugurated, adding a further six hectares of pedestrian and public green space with buildings and services designed by the stars of contemporary architecture: Renzo Piano, Tadao Ando, Norman Foster and Stefano Boeri.

La Dolce Vita seems to have moved to the Place du Casino, amidst a bustle of elegant people and prestige cars. For many, the mission is to enjoy life in that quadrangle reborn in 2020 thanks to an extraordinary renovation project commissioned by the Société des Bains de Mer, owner of hotels, villas, shops and offices, and promoter of a contemporary lifestyle that is as attentive to aesthetics as it is to well-being. From the square, one goes to the Casino, where a round of roulette is in any case a fortune for the opportunity to admire frescoes, stuccoes and precious Belle Époque marble. On and around the square are several other places of entertainment, including historic, new and newly renovated. At the Hôtel de Paris, one of the most luxurious five-star hotels in the world, you can go to the Louis XV restaurant, Alain Ducasse's christened bastion, or to the Bar Américain, famous for its proverbial Negroni (also available in a non-alcoholic version), live music and worldly terrace. Don't be surprised if at your side you order a hamburger and a 7,000 euro bottle, chosen from the 450,000 stored in the hotel's very secret wine cellar, which celebrates its 150th anniversary this year and opens for a few, select events. This is how one lives in Monte-Carlo, of bizarre excesses.

On the opposite side of the square, Café de Paris is another historic venue that was renovated last November, without changing its essence: its Tropezienne cake is still the best in town. Below, the New Moods, renamed New Moods, a stage for stand-up comedy and concerts, closed and regretted since 2011, will be back in business this autumn. Another newcomer is Amazónico, a tropical-style restaurant that has been very successful in Madrid, London and Dubai, and here it does not seem to be outdone with its fully booked terrace where you can order king crab, lobster, wagyu and scenic cocktails accompanied by a cheerful Latin American band. After dinner it's down to the club, where dancing till dawn amidst animal print cushions and velvet curtains. Sushi and saké are the theme at the Omakase of chef Yannick Alléno, star of French cuisine, who opened Abysse at the Hôtel Hermitage in July, while Marcel Ravin, two Michelin stars at Le Blue Bay, has taken Elsa's kitchen under his wing, the gourmet restaurant at the historic Monte-Carlo Beach hotel, with the chicest beach in the area, an Olympic-size swimming pool with a triple diving board, and Club La Vigie, the other restaurant on a terrace overlooking the sea, where the catch of the day is brought to the table for you to choose from. Stocafi and barbajuan, the two national dishes, arrive to share at Maona, along with stuffed anchovies, tagliatelle with cherry tomatoes and a round-up of irresistible desserts. As always, one makes the most of the beautiful view of the sea (on the Riviera, good weather often lasts until early December), then at some point the DJ starts up and the dancing begins according to the Monegasque ritual of eat&dance.

The new gastronomic scene is just one of the factors that put the Principality of Monaco on the podium of the 2024 'European Best Destinations'. Glamour and worldliness count, but also that magical combination of luxury, landscape and entertainment. Apart from historical events such as the Rose Ball (in March), the Formula 1 Grand Prix (in May), the Yacht Show (in September), the summer exhibitions at the Forum Grimaldi and those at the New National Museum of Monaco, the cultural calendar is rich, varied and always of a high standard. The exhibition anticipating the 50th anniversary of Pier Paolo Pasolini's death is underway at Villa Sauber (until 29 September) and at the Oceanographic Museum one can visit Prince Rainier III's yacht guided by the voice of his daughter Stéphanie. The year 2025 will start with the Festival international du Cirque (17-26 January) which has just turned 50, then the Printemps des Arts concerts will return (12 March to 6 April), a festival of music founded by the unforgettable Princess Grace (Kelly) in 1970. These days, it is not easy to find a safe and guaranteed place of amusement, but the Principality of Monaco and the Société des Bains de Mer - whose partners include the Lvmh group, with a 5% share, and a turnover close to 700 million - have chosen to invest in pleasure and joy. In this historical moment, a rarity.