Ideas

The Royal Palace of Caserta put to the test of modernity

Art, music, new ways of using spaces and food culture: Terrae Motus is the first testing ground

4' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

4' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

What should a royal palace do in the 21st century? Preserve itself – but what then? It should promote itself, attract visitors, educate, produce culture and perhaps generate income – ideally without turning into a duty-free shop. Caserta is a good place to look for an answer, because a monument does not die only when it is abandoned, but also when it becomes completely untouchable.

Terrae Motus, art in the wake of disaster

In Caserta, Vanvitelli conceived one of the most formidable symbolic structures of the 18th century, where architecture, landscape and power converge. Within this celebration of permanence, a foreign element has resided since 1993: ‘Terrae Motus’, a collection of 72 works gathered by the gallery owner Lucio Amelio following the 1980 Irpinia earthquake and bequeathed to the Royal Palace in accordance with his wishes. Beuys, Warhol, Kounellis, Pistoletto, Paladino, Mapplethorpe. Art born from what had collapsed in a matter of seconds.

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T.S. Eliot argued that every new work changes the way we read previous ones.

This also applies to museums: preservation does not mean freezing things in time. *Terrae Motus* is the first test case. Antonio Tarasco, who has been acting director of the Reggia since July, has commissioned a committee to rethink the exhibition spaces and criteria for the collection, which, by the terms of the will, must remain within the Vanvitelli complex. It is not merely a matter of arranging 72 works, but of creating a dialogue between two opposing concepts of time.

The Lesson of Versailles

Jean-Jacques Aillagon, president of Versailles from 2007 to 2011, threw open the palace’s doors to contemporary art with Jeff Koons, Xavier Veilhan, Takashi Murakami and a trail of scandal that contributed even more than the artworks themselves to the site’s revival. Must a palace represent the past, or can it once again give rise to new forms and conflicts? Aillagon, who was also behind the French law on patronage that transformed the relationship between business and culture, left behind a lesson more significant than the exhibitions themselves. Versailles continues to experiment. Today, you can dine at Alain Ducasse’s restaurant and attend an electronic music rave at the Orangerie. Before becoming museums, royal palaces were anything but quiet; they were machines of representation, consumption, spectacle and socialising.

The boats in the Peschiera

Tarasco extends the scope of the proposal to the entire monument. ‘For too long we have regarded the Royal Palace as the monument of the city of Caserta. But it is a World Heritage Site.’ A shift in scale, resources and responsibility. The Royal Palace is preparing 17 projects to be funded through sponsorship, totalling over 20 million euros, calling on citizens, foundations, and Italian and international businesses. “Being a World Heritage Site must mean shared responsibility. If we rely solely on local or state resources, UNESCO risks remaining nothing more than a declaration of principle.”

Then there are the practical matters. Air-conditioning areas that are unbearable in summer, lighting up the park in the evening, reopening the spaces vacated by the Air Force, and opening the Castelluccia to school projects. And making the Peschiera Grande navigable, where Ferdinand IV used to have the Lipari sailors train. ‘I’d like to bring the boats back there. People shouldn’t feel intimidated by the Royal Palace; they should experience it.’

An old battle at Tarasco resurfaces: bridging the divide between those who preserve the heritage and those who must manage it, promote it and ensure its sustainability. ‘We cannot assume that the economic role of the Reggia consists solely of ticket sales.’ He wants concerts that engage with the monument rather than merely using it as a backdrop, and from 2027 he envisages Christmas markets like those in Vienna.

From the Bourbons to pizza

It is not far removed from the Bourbon spirit. In San Leucio, Ferdinand IV brought together the royal residence, the silk mill and everyday life. The estate produced, worked and provided homes. Today, the Giardino della Camelia – a bistro and cultural centre housed in the former Casa di Guardia – also supports the economic independence of women escaping domestic violence.

But the region suggests something more popular. Caserta is a global hub for contemporary pizza, with Francesco and Sasà Martucci, Ciccio Vitiello and Franco Pepe, not far away in Caiazzo. Why not turn this into an opportunity for international exchange? Not a pizzeria in the Royal Palace, but pizza as a form of cultural diplomacy. Versailles attracts millions of visitors; Caserta has surpassed the one-million mark. It would be a poor measure to reduce the comparison to ticket sales alone. What matters is how much a heritage site can contribute culturally, socially and economically, beyond the ticket price. Tradition is not the static worship of what we have inherited. The Royal Palace represents permanence; Terrae Motus represents catastrophe. Perhaps that is why they go so well together. Preserving Caserta does not mean protecting it from change. It means giving it enough of a future to continue being itself.

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