The sweatshirt is fifty years old, whilst the double-breasted jacket is thirty
It’s not (just) about anniversaries, but about the age of the wearer. Those over fifty opt for practical, comfortable garments. Meanwhile, those in their thirties tend to define their style with a classic suit.
The sweatshirt is over a hundred years old: American, made of cotton, with a crew neck and a plain finish. It originated in Alabama — it is said that a prototype was made for a quarterback in 1926 — and it was American football that made it a success. But, for at least half a century, it has left the sports field to find its way everywhere. Even in the cinema: The Great Escape (of the sweatshirt) is, in fact, also the one worn by Steve McQueen on his motorbike in the 1963 film of the same name: less sport and more charm, the journey continues to this day.
According to every men’s wardrobe guide, it’s one of the ten classics you should have in your wardrobe. Yes, but at what age should you wear it? And on what occasion? And which style? These are dilemmas that particularly trouble older gentlemen — younger men take the risk of breaking the rules by simply ignoring them. Yet many refuse to give up the sweatshirt, considering it a must-have not for sport but for one of the activities that today defines their sense of self far more than the books they’ve read or the saints they venerate: travelling. By plane, by car, by train: the sweatshirt. Perhaps even on a spaceship, when the time comes for space travel for everyone. Essential and indispensable.
Leonardo Girombelli — formerly a manager at his family’s company, Genny (now part of the Swinger International Group), then a consultant, and now an entrepreneur — has created a capsule de voyage called Escapista, dedicated precisely to real journeys that open up new mental worlds. He himself describes his traveller’s mindset as ‘soft’, not rigid: which is why jerseys, sweatshirts and soft accessories suit them perfectly. Girombelli explains: ‘The fashion project stems precisely from a certain outlook, not from an age group. It’s a romantic and poetic attitude, where travel means deepening one’s understanding and evolving, experiencing emotions and adventures. His travelling companions are garments of an essential nature – basic yet sophisticated – such as a refined-looking garment-dyed jersey hoodie, featuring small details and references: the drawstring inspired by the Buddhist mala, and the cross-stitch embroidery. Above all, a man must feel comfortable and at ease in these garments, and over time he may even develop an emotional attachment to them. That genius, Elio Fiorucci, told me this many years ago: “The essential garments are the ones you grow fond of.”
And here’s the question. Can you really grow fond of a double-breasted jacket? Whilst the sweatshirt is celebrating its centenary, this quintessential men’s classic dates back much further, evolving from military jackets – the uniforms of the Hussars in the 17th century, followed by the jackets of the British Royal Navy in the 19th century. And yes, it seems one can feel a passion and almost a calling to wear it as part of one’s personal style. The return of the double-breasted suit shows that even classic menswear can become more relaxed without losing its authority. The actor Timothée Chalamet, aged thirty, seems very fond of his double-breasted suit by Givenchy, custom-designed by Sarah Burton: he owns it in five different colours and has been wearing it almost like a uniform since early 2026, at award ceremonies and premieres.
He, who – amidst great controversy – declared that he regards theatre and ballet almost as archaeology, has taken a garment with a deeply classical heritage and reimagined it, moving it beyond the strictest codes of traditional elegance and making it the perfect embodiment of glamour. The double-breasted suit has been lightened and softened: more fluid trousers, a less stiff construction, and unexpected colours — tobacco, havana, electric blue — which make it feel much more casual. Something that fits perfectly within a youthful, dynamic, even relaxed image. Jacob Elordi, another icon of his generation, also loves the double-breasted suit. He alternates between formal and casual versions, wearing it with a buttoned-up shirt and tie or styled in a more carefree manner, with the top button of his jacket undone and sunglasses on. And perhaps that is the point: there is no sense of tension; it does not seem like an outfit belonging to a specific place but rather to a personal, almost emotional journey. After all, this is what we should be aiming for when we talk about sustainable fashion: styles capable of bridging the generation gap, transcending seasons, weathering iconoclastic trends and even the fads of decluttering. Clothes that are like friends, destined to last a long time and to preserve the memory of our — and their — finest moments.
