Interview

Toniolo (CEO of Dolce&Gabbana Beauty): ‘We’re growing through retail, markets and innovation’

Gianluca Toniolo

3' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

3' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

Six international sites – in addition to the one in Italy – in Miami, Dubai, Singapore, Paris, India and Madrid (the latter through a joint venture), with a global workforce of over five hundred employees, 180 of whom are based at the Milan headquarters, and a retail network of around 120 counters worldwide, twenty beauty areas in the fashion house’s boutiques and an expanding network of standalone stores entirely and exclusively dedicated to beauty: since 2022, following the decision to bring the cosmetics business back in-house, moving from a licensed model to direct management, Dolce&Gabbana Beauty has come a long way: CEO Gianluca Toniolo explains the journey in detail.

How has the fashion house’s beauty division evolved?

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In just over three years, we have transformed a business that was primarily focused on fragrances into a global beauty brand, with three key areas of development: fragrances, make-up and skincare. We have relaunched iconic ranges such as Light Blue and The One, created a successful new range such as Devotion, completely revamped our make-up range and made our entry into the skincare market. At the same time, we have invested in our organisational structure, distribution and retail operations, developing a direct presence in key international markets.

What were the results?

In 2024, estimated sales totalled 910 million euros, up 35 per cent on 2023, whilst in 2025 we exceeded the one-billion-euro mark in wholesale sales, tripling our 2022 turnover in just three years. We closed the 2025 calendar year with 14 per cent growth, accompanied by a positive double-digit operating profit. This result confirms the soundness of the decision taken three years ago and the increasingly significant contribution this category is making to the brand’s overall development.

And what about this year?

Our target for 2026 is to continue achieving double-digit growth. It will be the year with the most intensive innovation programme for the internalisation of the business: we will be working simultaneously on strengthening our major fragrance franchises, expanding the distribution of our make-up range and launching our first complete skincare range. The make-up division aims to increase its global retail outlets from the current 1,100 to around 2,000 by the end of 2026.

How much are your exports worth, and which are your most important markets?

We are, by nature, a highly international business. The Americas account for around 55 per cent of Dolce&Gabbana Beauty’s revenue and, within this region, the United States accounts for around 60 per cent. Europe generates around 40 per cent of revenue, with Italia, Spain and Germany among the leading markets, whilst Asia accounts for roughly 6 per cent but offers significant prospects for growth. The US therefore remains our leading market and is experiencing particularly strong growth. In 2026, the brand reached sixth place in the US fragrance market, climbing two places, with a 28 per cent increase compared to a market that grew by 5 per cent. We are also paying close attention to markets such as the Middle East, Australia, Mexico and Brazil, which are expanding rapidly. In India, we have taken direct control of operations, whilst the Asia-Pacific region, Indonesia, Thailand and Vietnam are showing very positive signs.

How are you developing your retail business in Italia and abroad?

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Our strategy combines an extensive wholesale presence, selective retail openings and digital development. Wholesale remains the priority channel for beauty, whilst single-brand boutiques play an important role in strengthening our positioning and offering an immersive and comprehensive brand experience. We have begun rolling out dedicated boutiques, starting with Jakarta, followed by Hong Kong, London’s Covent Garden, the Dubai Mall, Bahrain and Kuwait. Over the next three years, we anticipate further openings, with a particular focus on the Middle East, India, Brazil, Mexico and the United States. The stated aim is to reach between fifty and seventy independent beauty boutiques worldwide. This is complemented by a model that is distinctive to us: the integration of beauty areas within our fashion boutiques. Around twenty are already operational, and a further twenty-one are planned by the end of 2027. This cross-pollination allows us to present cosmetics as an integral part of the Dolce&Gabbana universe, rather than as a separate category.

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