To adventure

Travellers and lights of wandering centuries

Monks and pilgrims, merchants and wise men travelled by land or by ship, between inns and taverns, in a continuous coming and going: outside the stereotypes of dark decades, the Middle Ages is also this, as the Festival tells it well

by Duccio Balestracci

XI edizione. Il Festival del Medioevo è un appuntamento tradizionale nella cittadina umbra

5' min read

5' min read

Poor christians, those of the Middle Ages! Not only did they have to live in the 'dark ages', but they were also destined to be born and die in the same place, not knowing what lay beyond the fields around the village or beyond the city walls. There, if you still have these two stupidities in your head (the 'dark ages', which were not dark at all, and people rooted to their place of origin like a shrub) you are completely off the mark.

The Middle Ages (especially the Middle and Late Middle Ages) saw a swarm of people moving by land and sea, learning about the world and, when they knew how, telling what they had seen. Sometimes, even what they have not seen, but which 'must', of necessity, be there: enchanted countries, people with strange bodies, monstrous animals, in a free-for-all of the imaginary, which is not the negation of reality, but its counterpart, and which, therefore, is also part of 'geography'.

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A surprising journey, that of the Middle Ages, the main theme of the eleventh edition of the Gubbio Festival of the Middle Ages (24-28 September 2025), dedicated precisely to the theme "The Journey. Pilgrims, wayfarers, explorers".

This ant farm on the move has many protagonists, each with their own specificities, but all responding to the same imperative: hit the road, hit the road. They include those who work in the mercantile trade and who move behind every load of wool or grain or whatever. They travel the length and breadth of armies and soldiers in search of engagement (there is always a war somewhere). They roam in search of fortune, money, a fame to build, a woman (preferably a rich one) to marry and a fiefdom to acquire the 'wandering' knights. They move from one university to another the clerics vagantes seeking knowledge and contaminating every place they visit with ideas.

They know the journey well, the Celtic monks who travel between Ireland, English lands and continental lands to bring the Gospel and, along with it, to spread the most ancient Celtic tradition, knowledge of which we owe in large part to them. Franciscan and Dominican friars walked the world ceaselessly to erect churches and bring the people closer to the word of Christ. That Christ to the places of whose earthly life rows of western pilgrims wander ceaselessly; the same ones who walk the roads of the iter compostellanum and the michelici paths. For the first Jubilee, in the year 1300, the flood of pilgrims to Rome is such that it forces the creation of a one-way street in and out of the city.

They do nothing different from the droves of Islamic pilgrims, for whom the Hajj is a precept, and who, in turn, take the road to Mecca and, if one is a truly devout Muslim, at least the road to Medina. From wherever in the boundless Islamic world one must set out.

All we need is the inclusive tour. But no: there is that too. Those who make the pilgrimage to the Holy Land know something about it. Do-it-yourself pilgrim? No Franciscan Custody? Ouch! Better to rely on the organisation of the Friars Minor who know these places and who take charge (against payment, of course) of the pilgrims, organise the stages and overnight stays, provide donkeys, camels, camel drivers and guide-interpreters. You can also go as a free walker, but then don't complain if you have bad experiences, as some medieval accounts testify.

By land one travels on horseback, donkey, camel and dromedary. A lot on foot: you need good legs, good footwear and good sticks. The road surface is what it is. The rest stops, the inns, the inns are not five-star resorts. But on the other hand, when you stop, you download information, tales, legends, stories, and every smoky tavern, every beggar's inn is transformed into a hub where news arrives, transforms, maybe gets twisted and starts again. And when they arrive at their next destination, they are often unrecognisable, in a sort of childish 'wireless telegraph' in which orality plays a key role in disseminating, however, some knowledge of the world and what goes on in it.

Every journey is an adventure: the road is not only leg-breaking, but scary, full as it is of ferocious beasts and thugs fiercer than beasts. One goes around armed and it is best never to go alone: always in a group. The ship, for its part, beckons on that black sea that moves even at night and never stands still. If it goes well you vomit your soul from seasickness, eat mouldy stuff and drink rotten water, and when the sky darkens you have to commend your soul to God and all the saints. But wave upon wave you arrive at your destination, you whisper a prayer of thanksgiving, you curse the obnoxious, exorbitant customs officers at the landing, and you stow your fear in the skinny baggage sack, ready to be worn again for the return voyage.

One goes in search of Catai and maybe stays there for some twenty years, like the Polo family; missionaries travel to the frozen North or the deep East, passing through unknown lands, encountering strange people, who speak unknown languages, eat junk food, have aberrant sexual mores and worship strange gods and whom one must convert quickly, otherwise they end up straight in hell. Islamic travellers go around Muslim lands and maybe stay there for a little less than thirty years, like Ibn Battuta who, on his return to his North African homeland, where he died between 1368 and 1369, sums up the mood of all these people, thanking Allah that he had fulfilled the greatest wish of his life: to travel and learn about the world.

Historian of the Middle Ages

Evening meetings

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Appointments in San Domenico

The Festival will host author's evenings in the Church of San Domenico (Piazza Giordano Bruno): on the 24th with Tomaso Montanari ("Il viaggio nell'arte medioevale"); on the 25th with Dario Fabbri ("Mappe mobili: popoli e imperi dal Medioevo a oggi"); on the 26th with Edoardo Prati ("Nel nome dell'amore: le parole immortali"); on the 27th with Monica Guerritore ("Decamerone. Viandanti, amanti e peccatori"). All evenings begin at 9.15 pm and tickets must be purchased. Info:festivaldelmedioevo.itThe event is jointly organised by the Association for Social Promotion Festival del Medioevo and the Municipality of Gubbio.

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