Assocalzaturifici

Shoe sales down in the first quarter

3' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

3' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

The Italian footwear sector began 2026 against a challenging backdrop, with turnover down by 2.7 per cent. Exports in the January–March quarter stood at €3 billion, down 1.6 per cent in value and 3.6 per cent in volume compared with the same period in 2025.

“I can confirm the concerns expressed by businesses in the forecasts compiled at the end of last January,” says Giovanna Ceolini, president of Assocalzaturifici. Turnover has fallen by 2.7 per cent, whilst exports are showing signs of widespread weakness, with an overall decline of 1.6 per cent in the first three months and even sharper falls in non-EU markets. Against this backdrop, the domestic market has seen a slight recovery in consumption, but this has not been sufficient to offset the slowdown in international markets, which remain the sector’s main driver. Geopolitical tensions are exacerbating the challenges. The international situation confirms the uncertainty of forecasts and is generating rising costs and slowing down purchasing decisions by our buyers. Rising raw material and energy costs are causes for concern. In terms of employment and production, the number of businesses and employees is falling. It is essential to take action to support internationalisation, strengthen competitiveness and ensure stability for a sector that remains strategic for ‘Made in Italy’.”

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On the domestic front, however, there are more encouraging signs. Italian households spent 1.28 billion euros on footwear during the quarter (at retail prices), up 1.7 per cent in value and 2.1 per cent in volume compared with January–March 2025, thanks in particular to women’s shoes and trainers. The latter, together with trainers, account for 41 per cent of total spending.

According to the economic report compiled by the Research Centre of Confindustria Accessori Moda on behalf of Assocalzaturifici, exports – which account for around 90 per cent of the sector’s total turnover – showed signs of difficulty as early as the first few months of the year: in the January–March quarter, they stood at around 3 billion euros, down by 1.6 per cent in value and 3.6 per cent in volume compared with the same period in 2025.

 

Among European partners, France (+6 per cent in value, despite a 3.6 per cent fall in volume) remains the leading destination for Italian-made footwear, whilst Germany has seen a slowdown, with figures down by 10 per cent.

International tensions are taking their toll: exports to the Middle East are down 33 per cent (with a 62 per cent fall in March, following the outbreak of the conflict), whilst those to the countries of the former Soviet bloc are down 21 per cent, whilst the United States, which has been grappling since spring 2025 with the issue of additional tariffs on incoming goods, recorded a 7.4 per cent fall in value. The sector’s trade balance has nevertheless strengthened to €1.3 billion, up by +10.9% on 2025, thanks to a sharp slowdown in imports, which fell by -9.5% in value.

Difficulties persist in terms of production capacity and employment. In the first three months of 2026, there were 85 fewer active businesses and 808 fewer employees among footwear manufacturers compared with the end of 2025. The use of social safety nets remains significant: in the leather sector, the number of hours on short-time working, although down by 40 per cent compared with the peaks of 2025, stands at 6.2 million – a level still more than three times higher than pre-pandemic levels.

The figures for exports of footwear and parts by region show a decline across all major areas, with a few exceptions. When interpreting these figures, however, one must take into account distortions arising from possible discrepancies between the province or region of manufacture and that of dispatch. In the first quarter, only Emilia-Romagna and Piedmont showed a positive trend.

The decline in exports from Lombardy (-10.8% over the first three months of 2023) is broadly in line with the national average; the region tops the regional rankings ahead of Veneto (-14.8%, which alone accounts for as much as 40% of exports to France, down by -6.9% but still the leading regional destination) and Tuscany (-19.7%, which recorded a -82% slump in exports to Switzerland). In fourth place is the Marche region (-8.9% overall, with -7.7% in Fermo, -5% in Macerata and a significantly steeper decline for Ascoli Piceno, which fell by -21.7%). Puglia (seventh) and Campania (eighth) also showed decreases, though these were fairly modest (-5.9% and -2.9% respectively).

Finally, with regard to business demographics, by the end of March the number of active businesses in Italia had fallen to 3,490 (with a net decrease of 74 units across industry and manufacturing compared with December 2023, equivalent to -2.1 per cent), accompanied by a fall in the number of employees of -0.8 per cent.

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