Verona Trade Fair

Vinitaly kicks off, wineries looking for alternatives to curb the tariff effect

The United States is the first market by value for Italian wine with a turnover of 1.9 billion out of total exports of 8 billion, but the hunt is already on among wineries for markets that can make up for the likely drop in sales

4' min read

4' min read

Italian wine sends half of its production abroad and achieves over half of its turnover on international markets: 8 billion out of a total of over 14.5. In this scenario the United States is the leading market in value terms with a turnover of 1.9 billion. These few figures undoubtedly make it clear that the subject of duties cannot but be the highlight at the centre of the 57th edition of Vinitaly opening today in Verona. A topic that will hold centre stage above all in the attempt to identify if not countermeasures at least solutions.

Variables on damage estimation

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Various interpretations have been circulating in recent days in the wake of the obvious and justified recriminations over the US president's decisions (many exponents of organisations which, in reality, do not export anything, are also tearing their clothes). They range from the inevitable estimate of prospective damage, to the necessary search for alternative outlets, certainly not to replace the USA in the short term but at least to limit the damage.

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These range from the fear of losing market shares to competitors, not European ones such as France and Spain, which are burdened by the same tariff applied to Italy (20%), but Chile, Australia, New Zealand and Argentina, which instead have a 10% duty, to possible market rebalancing: for example, there are many requests to speed up the EU-Mercosur agreement, which together with the EU-India agreement could offer new export opportunities for Italian wine.

On the damage estimation front, many hypotheses are circulating that examine different scenarios. It may be useful to recall the type of wines exported from Italy, which may give more precise indications on the possible repercussions of the US duties.

Little presence among luxury wines

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One of the considerations that has often been reiterated in recent days emphasises how Made in Italy wine, since it is positioned on the premium end of the market, does not have much to fear from duties. Higher prices, in short, would guarantee margins to absorb the duty. In reality, only 2% of the Italian bottles sold in America boast a luxury wine price point, while 80% are concentrated in the 'popular' bands, which translated into price/part means on average just over 4 euros per litre. And which US duties can drive out of the market.

As far as possible solutions are concerned, one way was suggested by the president of the Italian Wine Union, Lamberto Frescobaldi, who emphasised the need for 'an agreement with US importers who profit more from Italian wines than we do: we need to share the extra cost and avoid passing it on to consumers'. And thus lowering price lists.

Further indications come from a deeper reading of the 2024 wine export data. The overall figure set a new record with 8.1 billion euros (+5.5%). The figures also confirmed the USA as the first outlet in value (1.93 billion euro, +10.2%). This result is also the result of the real exploit at the end of the year with many US importers accelerating their purchases to strengthen their stocks in anticipation of the new duties. According to some estimates, US wine purchases from Italy were up 20% in the last two months of the year alone.

New Sales Markets

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There is also a positive feeling: just as American importers anticipated their purchases in anticipation of the duties, something similar also occurred among Italian producers, who as early as last year began to seed new outlet markets or strengthen others with perhaps still untapped potential. Or at least this is what the numbers indicate. In fact, in addition to the substantial +15.3% recorded by Canada which, with 447 million euros of turnover, is now the fourth largest destination for Italian wine, among the non-EU countries, the strong 'comeback' of Russia (230 million, +45.6%) should be noted. Although this figure, read with the simultaneous decreases recorded in neighbouring countries such as Norway (-10.9%) and Latvia (-12.5%), probably represents the return of a direct flow that in the years of war and EU sanctions was often 'triangulated'. Brazil (41 million, +12.6%) an outlet that could grow further with the EU-Mercosur agreement.

But, above all, some positive data came, somewhat surprisingly, from old Europe. Starting with the +3.7% recorded by Germany (the second market overall and the only one with the USA to exceed one billion in purchases of Italian wine with 1.18 billion). The Netherlands (257 million, +10.1%), Austria 163 million, +14.4%), Denmark (150 million, +4.9%) and the Czech Republic (105 million, +4.1%) did very well. Among the countries that recorded an acceleration in wine imports from Italy was also Ireland (58.5 million, +19.5%), the very country that would like to insert alerts on wine labels to say that it 'damages health' like cigarettes.

The feeling, in short, is that the 'antibodies' have already been put into circulation and that Italian wine, which has already faced many crises, from the proverbial methanol to the financial crisis of 2008, from the Covid that closed restaurants and bars for a long time to the Russian-Ukrainian war that exploded costs, has what it takes to overcome this one too.

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