Watches, single-brand investments grow

According to the latest study on the hand market in Italy in 2023, carried out by Gfk Italia for Assorologi, sales in traditional watch and jewellery stores (including those in shopping centres) confirmed their centrality, accounting for 47.5% in quantity and 64.5% in value. Of these, reports the study by the association of watch manufacturers and distributors, single-brand boutiques (owned by or in partnership with a local dealer) are worth 3.3% in quantity and 5.2% in value. In recent years, single-brand boutiques have also increased in our territory, as a consequence of the strategies of the parent companies that, especially in some cities, want to be more directly present in the territory and closer to local customers, customising the chosen locations in an exclusive way.

2024, therefore, did not deviate much from this trend either, and the openings were several. Starting in Milan, March saw the opening of Audemars Piguet's imposing AP House in Via Bagutta, a 1,600-square-metre, multifunctional, multi-functional space not only dedicated to sales. Last month, Swatch reopened, after a period of renovation, its store in Corso Vittorio Emanuele at number 15: one of those selected by the parent company worldwide to also sell the bestseller Bioceramic MoonSwatch. Also Swatch, from 3 July has a temporary store in Forte dei Marmi, Via Spinetti 6. In Bologna, very close to Piazza Maggiore, in the central Galleria Cavour, where the shop windows of the most important luxury brands are concentrated, Panerai has opened its first space in the capital of Emilia with dealer Rocca.

Another partnership boutique, this time between Iwc and the Bartorelli Gioiellerie group, debuted in June at Via Roma 32/R in Florence: 100 square metres overlooking the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore and the Baptistery of San Giovanni. Also in the heart of the Tuscan capital, Tissot opened a space at Via dei Calzaiuoli 18/20R. Rome is also the city chosen by Longines to open its first proprietary boutique in Italy at 152 Via del Corso. Finally, at Terminal 3 of Fiumicino Airport, since 1 June there has been a Cartier boutique (the French maison's first in Italy in an airport), created together with Rocca.