When a company is led by a woman, the number of women being recruited increases

The global wellness economy has now exceeded 6.8 trillion dollars, and the global beauty market continues to grow at a faster rate than other consumer sectors. This growth is driven primarily by segments linked to preventative healthcare, nutrition, wellness tourism, spas and longevity. This is a sector where levels of equality and inclusion are already slightly higher than in other areas of the luxury sector: 34 per cent of board seats are held by women, compared with an average of between 23.3 and 29.3 per cent (data from the World Economic Forum and Deloitte). To further boost these figures, an increasing number of beauty companies are supporting women’s empowerment through initiatives, competitions and awards aimed at increasing the number of women in senior roles, creating what is known as the ‘ripple effect’ or ‘CEO effect’. According to a recent study by the Free University of Bolzano, in collaboration with the Stockholm School of Economics, when a company is led by a woman, there is a 21 per cent increase in the number of female managers hired. Following in the footsteps of great pioneers of the past, such as Helena Rubinstein, who invented mascara; Madam C. J. Walker, who was the first to specialise in Afro hair; Elizabeth Arden, who dared to paint even the lips of respectable women red; and Estée Lauder, to whom we owe the invention of sample sizes, the new leadership in the beauty industry is now being driven by a number of prominent women who are reshaping the market’s values and direction. For this reason, HTSI has decided to launch a series of meetings with the women leading the most dynamic cosmetics companies, the wellness ‘unicorns’, and both historic and innovative brands.

This is the first episode, and the main character is Sophie Vann Guillon.

Her strategic objective was to transform a niche brand such as Valmont into an empire, now present in 50 countries. Sophie Vann Guillon, CEO of the historic Swiss cosmetics house, joined the company in 2000 with a wealth of experience. Born in Cambodia, she grew up in Paris, where she completed her studies, before moving first to the United States and then to Switzerland. It was here that she began her career in luxury cosmetics. In the 1990s, she held the role of marketing manager and head of public relations at Yves Saint Laurent Parfums in Geneva. “It was a formative experience that was crucial for honing my expertise and brand-building strategies, and it taught me a great deal, above all to be very hands-on and practical.” Twenty-six years ago, she took the big step to Valmont. “The transition from such a vibrant and colourful environment as that of Yves Saint Laurent to the scientific world of Valmont might, at first glance, have seemed like a daunting challenge, but for me it represented a natural progression: I have always been fascinated by biology and medical science relating to the skin, and the change came about quite naturally. The real challenge was to grow whilst always remaining true to the brand’s identity. Never seek visibility at any cost, sacrificing key values: respect for the work of those who came before, the brand’s personality, and its target audience.” When talking about Valmont products, Vann Guillon uses an interesting expression; she calls them ‘transformative journeys’ towards a destination that keeps changing over time. “Today, the mission of a beauty brand is to regenerate, stimulate and revitalise the skin: in other words, to support its natural processes, whilst respecting its biological rhythms and timing. In a saturated market like today’s, it is important for us not only to meet these needs, but also to protect our exclusivity by continuing to formulate, produce and register new molecules.’ In her professional approach, she has managed to balance Swiss precision with Eastern sensibility. “I was born in Asia, but I’ve always travelled extensively, absorbing different cultures. Since living in the home of precision and pharmaceuticals, I’ve also made these traits my own. In my formulations, I always seek the highly sensorial textures that are a typically Asian characteristic – just think of Japanese and Korean skincare products. I’ve managed to achieve this through carriers: molecules that function as carriers for active ingredients, yet are also extremely pleasant to use. Alongside scientific research, it’s the sensory experience that’s the real added value in skincare.” Reconciling the slow pace of scientific research with the speed of the market isn’t always easy. “Not at all, but I’ve made a strategic choice: to do less, but do it much better. In other words, to have a precise focus on which to invest each year to keep the brand alive and up to date, whether by refining an existing formula, studying its potential in greater detail, or adding a new product to a line already in production.”

Nowadays, our lifestyle is also affected by a general acceleration: immersed in a constant stream of demands, we have to keep up, stay up to date and remain competitive. This requires ever more time and the ability to prioritise. ‘We are constantly bombarded with information, but which bits do we really need, or which can we actually cope with? Our psychological wellbeing suffers as a result: we need to allow ourselves time to recover. I protect myself with a very Asian approach, that is, by distancing myself. And by surrounding myself with art. In all its forms, but particularly that created with raw materials such as wax, iron and wood: works that show us how the beauty of nature can be transformed into something unique by the human touch.” Creativity is also the common thread in the selection of Valmont’s ambassadors: the brand does not enlist famous celebrities, but speaks for itself through artists. ‘If the quest for visibility today relies on influencers, my view is that they are mostly flash-in-the-pan figures, quickly replaced by others in a constant cycle of turnover. It’s the fast food of communication. At Valmont, on the other hand, we focus on the expertise of qualified speakers and the creativity of artists, to whom we entrust the design of our collectable packaging every year.”

It is no coincidence, then, that the Fondation Valmont – a space dedicated to promoting contemporary art – is based in Venice, at Palazzo Bonvicini. ‘It was founded in 2015 at the instigation of my husband, Didier Guillon. As well as being a co-founder of the beauty brand, he is also a philanthropist and an artist. The Fondation organises events and exhibitions featuring both established and emerging artists from all over the world. Currently on display is the exhibition PENELOPE Her Journeys: it brings together the work of three international artists offering a modern reinterpretation of the female figure at the heart of the Odyssey, the patient wife of Ulysses. “The La Maison Valmont boutiques are also organised like galleries and showcase works of art.”