Prohibition whisky is revived in Liguria
In a mill in Sassello, the Assandri family is producing moonshine. That was the name given in the USA to the distillate made clandestinely
4' min read
4' min read
Moonlight, or rather moonshine. This is what was called, in the years of American Prohibition, the clandestine whisky, produced under the cover of darkness. A freshly distilled spirit, without ageing, that could be easily marketed. In 1933, with the repeal of the prohibition of alcohol production in the USA, moonshine continued to be produced by artisans, with recipes that varied, depending on the territory of origin.
A century earlier, in 1830, a mill had been inaugurated in Sassello (Savona), in the Beigua Park, which throughout the 19th century, exploiting the waters of the Sbruggia stream, stone-milled the cereals cultivated on the surrounding hills. Precisely in the years between the two wars, despite the crisis that affected the area, Camillo Assandri acquired the mill from his uncle and relaunched it, keeping its production structure intact, which is still used today.
But what does a Ligurian mill have to do with Prohibition? A lot. Because today, Mr Camillo's grandson, Diego Assandri, born in 1973, in that same stone mill, has been producing a moonshine since 2022, made with maize - cultivated by the Assandri family itself in the Sassello area - that is not malted, so that all its organoleptic characteristics remain unaltered.
This moonshine, branded with the Mr. Camillo brand, designed ad hoc in honour of his grandfather, was awarded in 2023 with the gold medal at the World Whiskey Awards in London, an award that was reconfirmed in 2024, the year a new product also made its debut, again linked, in a double thread, with the territory: moonshine with chinotto (from Savona) and honey (from Sassello). To this is added a third type of moonshine, called Cuore di legno, refined in steel tanks but flavoured with oak.
For 2025, then, Mr. Camillo is preparing for a quantum leap: the release of the first aged whisky (three years) is planned, which will also be the world's first 100% unmalted spelt whisky. 'My approach,' explains Diego Assandri, 'is more oriented towards the world of Irish than towards scotches, made with malted barley. We make moonshine, and we will also make whisky, with spelt, maize, Senatore Cappelli (which is an ancient grain, ndr) absolutely not malted. Because, while it is true that in Italy we are not great whisky producers, it is also true that we have been wheat producers for centuries and, with our processing - just think of pasta and pizza - we are an excellence in the world. Hence the idea, which we are pursuing, of using ancient cerelai, which we produce in Sassello, grind in the family stone mill and distil in our distillery, using water from the Sbruggia stream in Sassello'.



