Beverage

Prohibition whisky is revived in Liguria

In a mill in Sassello, the Assandri family is producing moonshine. That was the name given in the USA to the distillate made clandestinely

by Raoul de Forcade

Diego Assandri ( a sinistra) e il padre Rinaldo (77 anni ma attivissimo) nel mulino di famiglia, la cui inaugurazione risale al 1830. Fu acquistato dal nonno Camillo tra le due guerre

4' min read

4' min read

Moonlight, or rather moonshine. This is what was called, in the years of American Prohibition, the clandestine whisky, produced under the cover of darkness. A freshly distilled spirit, without ageing, that could be easily marketed. In 1933, with the repeal of the prohibition of alcohol production in the USA, moonshine continued to be produced by artisans, with recipes that varied, depending on the territory of origin.

A century earlier, in 1830, a mill had been inaugurated in Sassello (Savona), in the Beigua Park, which throughout the 19th century, exploiting the waters of the Sbruggia stream, stone-milled the cereals cultivated on the surrounding hills. Precisely in the years between the two wars, despite the crisis that affected the area, Camillo Assandri acquired the mill from his uncle and relaunched it, keeping its production structure intact, which is still used today.

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But what does a Ligurian mill have to do with Prohibition? A lot. Because today, Mr Camillo's grandson, Diego Assandri, born in 1973, in that same stone mill, has been producing a moonshine since 2022, made with maize - cultivated by the Assandri family itself in the Sassello area - that is not malted, so that all its organoleptic characteristics remain unaltered.

This moonshine, branded with the Mr. Camillo brand, designed ad hoc in honour of his grandfather, was awarded in 2023 with the gold medal at the World Whiskey Awards in London, an award that was reconfirmed in 2024, the year a new product also made its debut, again linked, in a double thread, with the territory: moonshine with chinotto (from Savona) and honey (from Sassello). To this is added a third type of moonshine, called Cuore di legno, refined in steel tanks but flavoured with oak.

For 2025, then, Mr. Camillo is preparing for a quantum leap: the release of the first aged whisky (three years) is planned, which will also be the world's first 100% unmalted spelt whisky. 'My approach,' explains Diego Assandri, 'is more oriented towards the world of Irish than towards scotches, made with malted barley. We make moonshine, and we will also make whisky, with spelt, maize, Senatore Cappelli (which is an ancient grain, ndr) absolutely not malted. Because, while it is true that in Italy we are not great whisky producers, it is also true that we have been wheat producers for centuries and, with our processing - just think of pasta and pizza - we are an excellence in the world. Hence the idea, which we are pursuing, of using ancient cerelai, which we produce in Sassello, grind in the family stone mill and distil in our distillery, using water from the Sbruggia stream in Sassello'.

Diego began working at the mill, continuing the work of his grandfather (who died in 1993) and father Rinaldo (still with the company); but at the same time he cultivated a passion for travelling that led him to 'fall in love' with whisky. The idea of producing it on his own was born in 2010 but, before arriving at the first bottles of moonshine, the entrepreneur spent a decade gaining experience in Tennessee and South Africa. "I was lucky enough," he says, "to be taken under the wing of the president of the American distilling institute; then, in South Africa, I worked in a couple of whisky distilleries.

In 2018, Assandri decides to buy the stills, which it has manufactured to its own design in both the United States and South Africa. The Beigua distillery is ready in 2020, but Covid slows down the authorisations necessary for start-up, which only arrive in 2022. In the same year, the first bottles of moonshine are produced. The idea of creating the Mr Camillo brand, explains Diego, 'is inspired by my grandfather who taught both my father and me how to work well.

The company, he continues, 'produced around 7-8 thousand bottles of moonshine in 2024 and we expect to reach 1-12 thousand in 2025. To which, next year, we will add those of whisky'. At work, he clarifies, 'it's me and my best worker of 77 years, who is my dad. He is more focused on the mill, I take care, alone, of the distillery'. The latter is 'powered by 100 per cent photovoltaic energy. So much so that we are now stopped until March. We take three months 'off', in which we actually do a lot of other things on the farm, during the period when the solar system does not allow us to use the distillation machinery'.

In addition to Il signor Camillo spirits, the company produces Mulino di Sassello 1830 flour and is also focusing on zero-kilometre catering. 'Above the mill,' says Diego, 'we have created the Beigua docks. These are former warehouses transformed into rooms with an 'industrial chic' style, where sandwiches, focaccias, and first courses prepared from the mill's flours are offered, as well as local cured meats and cheeses and some special recipes from the Ligurian Apennines. "We have a shop for products and a restaurant, which also function thanks to collaboration with artisan producers in the surrounding area. And in the bistrot we organise tastings of our products'.

The Assandri family brands are marketed by the Ligurian company 1492 Coloniale group (of the historic Timossi house), which is the exclusive distributor on the national and (soon) international market. The half-litre bottles of moonshine are supplied to wholesalers and wine shops, while large-scale organised distribution is avoided for quality reasons.

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