Zed and the luxury: young people write the future of luxury

Le fasi del lavoro sono state quattro. Prima una desktop research svolta principalmente online per raccogliere quanti più dati disponibili. Poi una serie di focus group, con la tecnica del fishbowl con coetanei, amici e colleghi, ma anche con ragazzi più giovani, per esplorare le diverse opinioni sul tema e sviluppare gli insight da validare nella fase tre. Quindi, una survey quantitativa (con oltre un centinaio di persone intervistate da ciascun team) per approfondire e testare i risultati emersi dai focus group, sottoposti a un doppio processo di analisi, qualitativo e quantitativo. Da ultimo, ogni team ha avuto il compito di identificare una o più startup che incarnassero i risultati emersi (e che saranno al centro della seconda puntata di questo racconto). «La sfida è stata combinare il rigore della ricerca scientifica con la libertà di sperimentazione e di errore che andava lasciata agli studenti. L’impegno di questi giovani provenienti dai Paesi più disparati ha compensato abbondantement

Da sinistra, Gabriele Santoro, Filippo Scilio, Camilla Strenta, Daniele Selvatici. Alla seconda riga Felice Urciuoli, Arianna Tosti, Jacopo Berti Esclapon de Villeneuve, Tara Tomovic, Lieke Vermeeren. Nella terza riga Carlotta Gallo, Itan Vasili, Nikole Vasilcenko, Marlen Sagidolda, Sunyifei Wang.

PLEASURE, DESIRERABILITY, PERSONALISATION: THE NEW DIRECTIONS.

The results tell of an extremely multifaceted generation, with precise ideas on desirability and pleasure, which traces a direction for the luxury of the future, no longer defined by rarity, but by a synthesis of authenticity, digital expertise and ethical consistency. A luxury capable of speaking to the individual, rather than to everyone, of resonating with personal and unique needs.

Innanzitutto, è cambiato il concetto di sostenibilità. Per i nati dalla metà degli anni Novanta, l’attenzione all’ambiente e all’etica non è più un elemento che differenzia un marchio, ma è una condizione minima per essere considerati credibili. Se la trasparenza sulle filiere e l’impegno green sono apprezzati, non bastano però a giustificare un prezzo superiore. Salvo rare eccezioni, i giovani consumatori non sembrano disposti a pagare di più solo perché un prodotto è sostenibile: il rispetto per l’ambiente è atteso, non premiato. È un prerequisito, non un vantaggio competitivo. «Questo risultato suggerisce come le pratiche green siano ormai parte integrante del contratto sociale», spiega Bisan Abdulkader, docente di Entrepreneurship & Innovation. «Di conseguenza, i brand devono assicurare la sostenibilità in modo fluido e naturale, facilitando la creazione di esperienze co-creative, e la viralità spontanea. Ciò implica, ad esempio, la costruzione di ecosistemi in cui l’onli

Authenticity and emotion trump prestige. People are not seduced by status symbols or iconic logos, unless these are the bearers of authentic values or relevant cultural meanings. In all the sectors analysed - from automotive to cosmetics to art - a clear preference emerges for brands capable of generating emotional connections and narratives consistent with the identity of young people. Luxury, therefore, is no longer synonymous with ostentatious exclusivity, but a form of personal expression, where quality, integrity and the ability to communicate something that resonates inwardly count.

The role of social media is relevant in brand discovery, but trust is built elsewhere. Instagram, TikTok and influencers are powerful tools to connect with new brands, but Gen Z seeks confirmation through channels considered more trustworthy: for example, independent reviews, friends' opinions, online communities. In the more fashion and digital sectors, the hype built by influential figures continues to exert a certain role, however. The logic of exclusivity and belonging has faded, but has not disappeared completely.

Despite being digital natives, young people maintain a critical attitude towards automation. They appreciate all technology that simplifies - such as a smart reservation system or an augmented reality app - but reject that which replaces human interaction in contexts with high emotional or sensory content. In restaurants, in art, in fashion, what counts is the direct lived experience: technology is welcome if it is discreet, functional and non-invasive.

Finally, one fact emerges forcefully: customisation is crucial. For Gen Z, every consumer choice is also a declaration of identity. Whether it is an item of clothing, a cosmetic or a piece of furniture, the ideal product is one that leaves room for modulation and co-creation. "The consumer ethos of this generation is not absolute or ideal," Bisan Abdulkader points out. "But it is filtered through pragmatism, aesthetics and customisation.

Gen Z looks at the world of luxury with interest, but tends to reinterpret it according to criteria of accessibility and coherence with their lifestyle. Whatever economic availability they can count on, they show a strong focus on perceived value and flexibility. Young people tend to appreciate solutions such as fractional ownership, high-end second-hand or subscription services, because they allow exclusive experiences without necessarily adhering to the traditional model of ownership. "In the mobility and hospitality sectors, ownership is redefined through fractional or modular models (as in the cases of Raus cabins or the co-ownership of electric luxury cars)," adds Bisan Abdulkader. "This change reflects Gen Z's concept of flexible engagement, where value is strongly embodied in symbolic utility and the possibility of shared experience. Luxury, therefore, becomes less of a status statement and

The approach is more experimental than in the past: what counts is experience, uniqueness and the possibility of conscious and personalised choice.