Away from home

A few ideas on where to eat in the Dolomites and the surrounding area: from mountain farmhouses to signature cuisine

In the mountains, local produce is complemented by new gourmet offerings

Ansitz Heufler

5' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

5' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

People head for higher ground not only to escape the stifling heat, but also to seek out cuisine that reflects the region, its produce and the people who live there. This phenomenon finds one of its most fascinating expressions in South Tyrol, where rural traditions have blended with contemporary culinary trends and become an integral part of the region’s gastronomic offering.

A good starting point is “Masi con gusto”, the guide to rural flavours published by Gallo Rosso, which lists the best South Tyrolean country inns bearing a quality mark. The regulations stipulate, amongst other criteria, that more than 80 per cent of the produce must come from the farmstead or other South Tyrolean farms, and that only home-cooked dishes, without any pre-cooked products, may be served. And customers are increasingly seeking genuine authenticity, even on their plates.

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The Gallo Rosso Farmsteads

Among the establishments that embody this philosophy are Griesserhof in Varna, a historic wine-growing farmstead between Bressanone and Novacella, where South Tyrolean cuisine is paired with the estate’s own wines and the historic Stube; Burgerhof in Bressanone, an organic farm where the menu follows the seasons and meat from the family’s own livestock is served; Ebnicherhof on the Renon, nestled amongst chestnut groves, serving traditional dishes such as canederli, barley soup, cured meats, meat dishes and traditional desserts; Huberhof in Fiè allo Sciliar, an ancient organic farmstead owned by the same family since 1774, now renovated in keeping with its historic structure.

In Caldaro, the Luggin-Steffelehof also brings a particularly strong agricultural dimension to the table: the family cultivates vineyards and orchards using organic methods and processes part of their produce themselves. The result is a cuisine that does not seek to imitate gourmet gastronomy, but which finds new value today precisely in its authenticity: bread, speck, sauerkraut, cheeses, canederli, wild herbs, juices, jams and wines become an edible snapshot of the landscape.

The history of the Gitschhütte (at 2,210 metres)

To understand just how deeply rooted mountain catering is in the collective memory, one need only visit the Gitschhütte, at 2,210 metres on Mount Gitschberg, above Maranza. The history of the hut began in 1971, when it was nothing more than a simple wooden structure and ski tourism was still in its infancy. In the late 1990s, the management changed hands several times, until Meinrad Unterkircher took over in 2006; he continues to run the hut to this day. In 2012, the hut was destroyed by fire and rebuilt, reopening later that same year. Today, the Gitschhütte deliberately preserves the spirit of the old mountain hut: South Tyrolean cuisine, apple strudel, hearty dishes and that convivial atmosphere that is the hallmark of great hikes. It is the sort of dining experience where the view is not merely a decorative element, but an integral part of the meal.

The Cortina Frontier

Contemporary mountain cuisine finds one of its most interesting expressions in Cortina. At El Brite de Larieto, in the larch forest above the Ampezzo resort, the cuisine draws on the Gaspari family’s agricultural heritage. It was here that Riccardo Gaspari, now a Michelin-starred chef and a protégé of Massimo Bottura, who holds one Michelin star and a Green Star at San Brite, took his first steps. The subsequent transformation from a farming heritage into contemporary cuisine, alongside his wife Ludovica Rubbini – the driving force behind the dining room and the management of the project – has made it one of the most gourmet mountain huts in the Dolomites. The family farm produces milk, cheeses and other ingredients used in the various expressions of Brite’s cuisine. El Brite de Larieto remains the flagship of a system that also includes the Piccolo Brite, embodying a ‘zero-kilometre’ concept that has evolved into something more sophisticated: not merely a declaration of sustainability, but a production ecosystem that stretches from the barn to the plate.

Also in Cortina, in the town centre, is the new The Roof Cortina Bistrot & Lounge Bar, which brings the concept of a mountain hut into an urban setting. It is situated on the fourth floor of the historic Cooperativa, in a space that was previously a warehouse and has been transformed into a contemporary mountain retreat featuring wood, warm materials and a large terrace overlooking the Dolomites. The cuisine is created by chef Graziano Prest and reinterprets traditional Alpine flavours with a contemporary twist. It’s the latest trend in the mountains: you don’t need to go far to find the atmosphere of a mountain hut; you simply need to bring its materials, rituals and character into the heart of the town.

‘Cook the mountain’ at the summit

Meanwhile, signature cuisine continues to go from strength to strength. On Plan de Corones, at over 2,200 metres, AlpiNN by Norbert Niederkofler is one of the most representative examples of the ‘Cook the Mountain’ philosophy: cuisine rooted in the local area, the seasons and Alpine produce, set in a contemporary setting overlooking the Dolomites. Niederkofler’s vision has also reached the Anterselva Valley with Ansitz Heufler, a historic Renaissance residence transformed into a hospitality and dining venture. Since last year, the three-Michelin-starred chef has been at the helm: the osteria serves South Tyrolean cuisine rooted in regional produce and seasonal ingredients, whilst the ancient ‘rauchkuchl’ – the traditional kitchen where food was once smoked – has been transformed into a lounge bar. Absolutely not to be missed are the grey cheese risotto, Norbert Niederkofler’s signature dish, or the fried ravioli, which revives a ricotta and potato filling; potato puffs are paired with fermented sauerkraut; and a savoury fritter encases a white rabbit ragù. Ten guest rooms, managed by André Cis, complete the project.

Alfio Ghezzi’s Michelin-starred mountain hut

At 2,513 metres, on Col Margherita, Alfio Ghezzi Dolomites brings Michelin-starred cuisine to high altitudes. The establishment overlooks a truly natural balcony onto the Dolomites and offers cuisine created by Alfio Ghezzi, built on the interplay between haute cuisine and ingredients from the highlands. It is a mountain hut that is traditional in appearance only: large glass windows, contemporary design and gourmet-level cuisine transform the refuge into a place where altitude becomes part of the menu.

Contemporary bistro in Val d’Ega

In Val d’Ega, in Nova Ponente, the Ganis bistrot brings mountain cuisine into the modern age, whilst maintaining its connection to the local area through a blend of South Tyrolean and Mediterranean-inspired cuisine. Guests can enjoy the culinary experience in the cosy stube with its open fire or on the panoramic terrace in summer. Furthermore, the Gardoné – The Mountain Riviera, at 1,700 metres, is also part of the Pichler family’s project, alongside the Ganischgeralm in the Latemar-Obereggen area, where South Tyrolean tradition is expressed through dishes such as spit-roasted veal shank, crispy potatoes and sweet fruit dumplings. Three distinct venues – ranging from a gourmet restaurant to a high-altitude mountain hut – all run by the same family, following a very recent reopening.

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