Off menu

Breakfast now takes place in a starred restaurant: identikit of a rising trend

From the classic sweet offering to zero-kilometre eggs with the chef's secret touch: more and more Italians are enjoying a special start to the day

by Camilla Rocca and Emiliano Sgambato

Colazione da Horto Milano

7' min read

7' min read

Breakfast is now eaten in a restaurant. Or in the luxury hotel (even if you slept at home at night). The first meal of the day is becoming increasingly important for Italians and can become a special moment in which they seek an extra culinary pampering. Also thanks to the proposals designed ad hoc by restaurants (the real novelty compared to hotels, which have more 'simply' opened their doors to external customers), the speed of the 'cappuccino and brioche' ritual at the bar next door can be transformed into a more intimate and relaxing occasion for conviviality, far from the habits of traditional lunch and dinner appointments, in a quest for wellbeing that goes beyond the sweetness of classic pastries, seeking hybrid offers that range between a refined tradition and a savoury sprint with an innovative and international flavour.

In short, breakfast 'outside the home' has been transformed from a frugal and occasional moment into a real structured consumption experience for food lovers but not only. So more and more restaurateurs are taking the opportunity to differentiate their offerings and extend their opening hours to make room for gourmet or healthy morning options.

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Horto's Ethical Hour

"Our breakfast proposal debuted in February and we are very satisfied with the results we are getting," says Diego Panizza, co-founder with Osvaldo Bosetti of Horto a Milano. On a turnover of 3.48 million euro with a Mol of 7.5%, breakfast is now worth 8.5% of a target of 10% that we hope to reach soon".The average receipt is 35 euro, the complete sweet and savoury course (drink, croissant, fruit, eggs, water and coffee, ed.) costs 50 euro. "We now also offer it as a possible gift voucher and it is doing well. Like the offer for business customers, which during the week covers 70 per cent of the covers, far more than the restaurant's 46 per cent, is working very well. But the formula is also successful among the Italian private clientele, which at the weekend is much more present than foreigners: the proportion is about two-thirds/one-third, which is significant because at lunch and dinner the clientele is divided roughly in half," continues Panizza.

Horto

The entire menu follows the philosophy of the Ethical Hour, which distinguishes the entire gastronomic proposal of Horto, a double Michelin star: the traditional one and the green one. The raw materials must in fact come from suppliers no more than an hour away from the restaurant: "A virtuous model of synergy between cuisine and territory, in a reciprocal relationship of knowledge and respect, in the conviction that everything is close by". So, for example, the much sought-after eggs that can be enjoyed on the terrace just a stone's throw from the Galleria di Milano come from a small farm near Como, Il Principe di Fino, "which raises free-range chickens in the open all year round, where they can feed on wild herbs and seasonal fruit in much larger spaces than those provided for by the regulations governing organic products", says the young executive chef Alessandro Pinton. The same care has been taken in the sourcing of fruit, yoghurt, cured meats and so on: a declination of the "Cook the Mountain" philosophy of the ristar-starred Nornert Nierdekofler, who has been behind the project since the restaurant's inception in 2022 and heads the strategic and organisational direction of the kitchen.

Aprea at the Museum towards an encore

Success also for the "Breakfast at the Museum" format of the Caffè Bistrot Andrea Aprea, overlooking the inner garden of the Fondazione Luigi Rovati building. The initiative, also active since February, was particularly appreciated as a gift idea, thanks to its ability to combine culture and good food.

Two formulas are proposed: the richer "Sweet and Savoury Breakfast" includes a hot drink, orange or grapefruit juice, a brioche or a baked product, fresh fruit and a dish of your choice from a selection (85 euros for two people, including entrance to the Art Museum); for those who prefer a simpler proposal, the "Italian Breakfast" includes a drink, a juice and a brioche or a baked product (50 euros for two people, including entrance to the Art Museum).

Caffè Bistrot Andrea Aprea

"Breakfast at the Museum is an encounter between the pleasure of good food and the cultural richness of the artistic heritage, where gastronomy is intertwined with the beauty of the places that host our Bistrot," comments Andrea Aprea, chef of the bistreated restaurant located on the top floor of the same building with a marvellous view of the Milan skyline. "Our proposal is an opportunity to start the day in a special way, immersing oneself in an atmosphere that stimulates the senses and enriches everyday life.

Given the excellent feedback, it is very likely that the format will be confirmed again next autumn. An evolution of the experience is also being studied, 'designed to accompany another moment of pause and pleasure during the day'.

Over the bar (winning)

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According to Fipe data, the breakfast bar market in Italy is worth around EUR 20 billion per year, with more than 5 million Italians having breakfast outside the home on a daily basis. Breakfast also ranks first in terms of number of consumption occasions and has increased in frequency by 1% in 2024.

A Doxa survey shows that capproximately 40% of medium-high hotels in Italy also open breakfast to non-accommodated guests, with fixed-price or à la carte formulas. This evolution intercepts new needs: sociability, smartworking, mobility and experiential tourism, making breakfast one of the most interesting areas in which to innovate in catering.

The traditional bar remains the leader (over 70 per cent of out-of-home breakfasts), but the 'hybrid' segment (bakery, specialty café, coworking with food) is growing, with annual growth rates of 7 per cent. Moreover, brunch (the "extended breakfast") is booming: in Italy it is worth around 250-300 million euro per year, with a boom at weekends and a young-urban target.

Bakeries and surroundings

One example isPane Terra di Davide Longoni, in Via Tertulliano in Milan: an oasis for bread and sourdough lovers. A small shop, an authentic place where bread and pizza become everyday culture. Here you can also try a carefully prepared and genuine breakfast, including toasted bread with butter and artisan jams, baked cakes and selected coffees.

Longoni

In the baroque heart of Ragusa Ibla, I Banchi - Pane al Pane is the multifunctional project conceived by Ciccio Sultano: an ambitious basilica of taste, combining bakery, shop, bistro and restaurant, all in one cosy space inside Palazzo Di Quattro. The place lends itself to breakfasts full of freshly baked brioche, granitas, almond biscuits and cassatas.

In Florence, Caffè dell'Oro with its breathtaking view of the Ponte Vecchio is also the address for a breakfast with a view. Fresh croissants, artisan cakes and cru coffee are accompanied by attentive service and an intimate atmosphere, perfect to start the day immersed in the beauty of Florence's historic centre.

Bistrot winning model

Upstairs is Michelin-starred heaven, downstairs is the bistro, where breakfast is also served. The Moma di Roma is a unique restaurant with two distinct souls: one dynamic and contemporary, with simple and tasty dishes; the other gourmet, refined and creative. Each soul has its own chef and separate kitchen. Since 2002 Gastone and Franco Pierini have been running this restaurant after many important experiences.

Moma

Velò is the new bistro inside the historic Motovelodromo di Torino, opened next to the cycling track built in 1920. It is a restaurant immersed in an evocative green space enclosed by the cycling track where Coppi and Bartali once competed. Open non-stop from 8am to midnight. Here breakfast is a ritual: with traditional and gluten-free options, even poolside.

In the heart of Palermo, Charleston, a Michelin-starred restaurant, is an authentic gastronomic salon reborn where it all began, at Via Generale Magliocco 19, led today by young chefs Gaetano Verde and Giuseppe Calvaruso. On the ground floor the restaurant is divided into a café, bistrot and cocktail bar, while on the first floor there is a space dedicated to fine dining. Breakfast has a wide choice, from flaky croissants to viennoiserie to avocado toast, to be enjoyed immersed in the memory of a place rich in history and signature hospitality.

Charleston

In Lamezia Terme, Abbruzzino Oltre is chef Luca Abbruzzino's new starred venture. Housed in the refined Palazzo Greco Stella, a 19th-century building converted into a boutique hotel, art gallery and bistro, with works by artists such as Andy Warhol and Damien Hirst, an informal breakfast is also served here. In the elegant lounge on the ground floor, accompany the gastronomic journey with selected coffee and small pastries.

Abbruzzino Oltre

For those seeking an ethnic touch

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Mezè, in Milan, is instead an excellent address for discovering Lebanese cuisine in Milan, with a Middle Eastern-style proposal where breakfast becomes a ritual of small sweet and savoury tastes - from spiced eggs to halloumi with tomato compote, from beet hummus to kataif sweets - accompanied by tea, coffee and orange blossom lemonade. An authentic and convivial experience that enhances the tradition of the 'mezè' as an art of sharing, with the typical Lebanese bread baked on the convex oven (known as saj), for a journey of flavours that transforms breakfast into pure discovery.

Coraje

In Brera, Coraje is the South American restaurant born from the passion of footballer Lautaro Martínez and his wife Agustina. The atmosphere is authentic, with dishes that tell stories of family and tradition. An address that, in addition to the restaurant and bar, offersa curious proposal for breakfast: pan con manteca y dulce de leche, a white rustic bread made according to Agustina's grandmother's original recipe, served with butter and jam, as well as healthy pancakes made with oatmeal and garnished with tasty toppings.

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