Luxury

Burberry rises up to 9% thanks to an above-estimated financial year

Revenues of £2.461 billion down 15%, but profitability better than expected. 1,700 staff cuts announced over two years

by Mo.D.

FILE PHOTO: Models present creations at the Burberry catwalk show during London Fashion Week in London, Britain, February 24, 2025. REUTERS/Isabel Infantes/File Photo

4' min read

4' min read

Better-than-expected operating margins pushed up Burberry's share price on the London Stock Exchange, after the company also announced1,700 job cuts. The British brand also announced that it is beginning to see glimmers of hope after the crisis that has affected the entire luxury sector over the past year.

In the City, shares gained over 9%, partly recovering what they had lost since the beginning of the year. The balance since January, however, remains negative by -7%.

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Financial year in the red but better than estimated

In the 2024-2025 financial year Burberry reported a loss per share of 14.8 pence, which compares with earnings per share of 73.9 pence in the previous year, against revenue of £2.461 billion down 15 per cent (down 17 per cent on a reported basis). Comparable retail sales were down 12%.

Adjusted operating profit hit £26 million, with an Ebit margin of 1%, or 90 basis points above analysts' consensus. Adjusted Ebit for the second half of the year was £67 million, more than offsetting the first-half operating loss of £41 million, despite the promotional activities conducted in the third quarter, Barclays analysts point out.

Sales Geography

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Retail sales fell -6% in the fourth quarter alone, compared to a consensus of 7%. By geography, Asia Pacific was the weakest region at -9%, including Continental China at -8%, bringing the full-year decline to -15%. The Emeia (Europe, Middle East, India and Africa) and Americas regions both posted a -4% decline in the fourth quarter.

The announcement of cuts

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The British brand's restructuring will continue for the foreseeable future in the context of a broader crisis that is plaguing the luxury sector. Burberry has in fact announced plans to make further savings of£60 million over the next two years with cuts to the company's global workforce. In detail, the group plans to make around 1,700 redundancies globally, which will be part of organisational changes aimed at improving efficiency and profitability. These savings are in addition to the group's previously announced £40 million cost-cutting programme.

Burberry currently employs over 9,000 people globally. The company said it is still in the early stages of its turnaround and warned that the macroeconomic environment has become more uncertain due to the current geopolitical scenario. The group remains focused on increasing sales, promoting the brand and improving margins. "We expect that the impact of our actions will increase as the year progresses," said CEO Joshua Schulman, who took office last July and promised to revive a struggling brand, which has been penalised by the drop in consumption linked to the cost of living crisis. The group has focused on relaunching its outerwear line, including the famous trench coat, priced at around £2,000.

The analysts' comment

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The figures slightly exceeded low market expectations: comparable retail sales fell by 6%, compared to the consensus estimate of a 7% drop, while adjusted EBIT came in at £26m, against a consensus estimate of £11m.

"We believe that the market can interpret these results as an encouraging sign. However, Burberry's 'new direction' has yet to materialise: the new CEO took office just before the Spring/Summer 2025 show, and we expect the real change of pace to manifest itself only from the second half of calendar 2025," writes Bernstein's Luca Solca, adding: "We had anticipated a few difficult quarters, and this represents another one that we are leaving behind. We believe the new vision and strategy for the brand is consistent, and at current price levels and multiples, we view Burberry as an opportunity with an attractive risk-return profile for a turnaround-oriented long exposure." Bernstein has an 'outperform' rating on the stock.

Analysts at Morgan Stanley raised Burberry's target price to 875 pence from 825, with an 'equalweight' rating. Barclays (underweight with tp at 720 pence) points out that Ebit was better than expected and that there are further savings to come. "The company said it expects the first half of the fiscal year to be particularly challenging, while the benefits of the strategic initiatives undertaken should begin to manifest themselves in the second half. For the wholesale channel, revenues are expected to contract by around 25 per cent in the first half of the financial year as a result of increased rationalisation and control of distribution," Barclays analysts write, continuing, "Based on exchange rates in effect on 25 April 2024, Burberry now expects a negative currency impact of around £30m on revenues and £20m on adjusted operating profit for fiscal 2025." The UK bank's analysts go on to note: "In light of the divergent outlook between the first and second half, it remains difficult to assess whether FY25 adjusted operating profit will be an improvement on the prior year", while on revenues, "the group has already reported weakness in the wholesale channel in the first half, but caution also remains on the performance of Retail, and a cautious tone is expected on the current trading environment. In addition, any updates on the Chinese market and consumer reception of the new collections designed by creative director Daniel Lee will be of interest," reads the Barclays report.


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