Luxury

Burberry, sales down but less than analysts' estimates

In the quarter ending June, comparable sales in shops fell by 1 per cent, better than the 3.7 per cent decline predicted by analysts.

by Mo.D.

FILE PHOTO: A Burberry store is seen in London, Britain, January 16, 2023.  REUTERS/Peter Nicholls/File Photo

3' min read

3' min read

First signs of turnaround for Burberry. The British brand's sales fell less than expected in the first quarter of the current fiscal year, signalling the first results of the turnaround plan led by CEO Joshua Schulman.

In the quarter ending June, comparable sales in shops fell by 1 per cent, better than the 3.7 per cent decline predicted by analysts. In the same period last year, sales were down 21%. The best performance was recorded in the US market, where sales grew by 4% compared to the 0.8% expected, mainly due to the acquisition of new customers.

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On the London Stock Exchange, after an initial flare-up of 5.8 per cent, the stock was trading in positive territory by more than 3 per cent in mid-morning. The balance since the beginning of the year is positive by more than 30%.

The Relaunch Plan

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Despite the results, Burberry was keen to point out that the relaunch plan is still in the early stages and that the macroeconomic environment remains uncertain. Schulman, who has been at the helm of the group for a year, is aiming to return Burberry to its British roots by strengthening its positioning in the outerwear segment, particularly trench coats and scarves, and reducing its dependence on lines such as high-end leather goods, a strategy that has not been successful with customers. In May, Schulman announced a 20 per cent cut in its workforce as part of its cost-cutting plan, impacting mainly UK locations and global retail roles.

Among the initiatives to strengthen the connection with local markets, Burberry appointed four regional chairmen to the executive committee, while eliminating the vacant position of Chief Commercial Officer.

The relaunch plan comes at a complex time for the luxury sector, which after the post-pandemic boom is facing a global slowdown in demand, as demonstrated by the results of all the big groups in the sector, starting with French giants such as Lvmh and Kering. Missing from the roll-call are mainly sales in Asian markets.

The Analysts' Opinion

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According to Citigroup analyst Thomas Chauvet, the plan is 'on the right trajectory' and sales may have already reversed in June.

"ere are encouraging signs on the front of Burberry's relaunch plan, which seems to be moving in the right direction. The new CEO, Joshua Schulman, took office last August, in extremis, seeking to steer the Spring/Summer collection towards a new creative direction, focusing on British identity, the check motif and the brand's iconic designs. The sequential improvement in comparable sales, despite a particularly challenging market environment - which will be more evident in the coming weeks - suggests that the plan is beginning to bear fruit,' writes Bernstein's Luca Solca in a note, which continues: 'Further progress is expected in the second half of 2025 (according to the calendar), when the impact of the new marketing vision will fully emerge with the launch of the Fall/Winter collection. In this context, the newly announced cost efficiencies represent an additional positive element ('the icing on the cake'), which could provide further support for the stock in the coming months. In a still euphoric pricing environment in the luxury sector, Burberry appears well positioned: part of the "new course" includes a more realistic approach to pricing in leather goods, helping to make the brand more competitive and consistent with consumer expectations".

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