Report

Second-hand fashion, Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Hermès on the podium of the most desired brands

The study 'Guide to pre-loved fashion' by the resale platform Vestiaire Collective takes stock of the leading brands in the market: icons win, but research brands are also growing fast

by Fashion Editor

3' min read

3' min read

In the universe of the second hand, which as a whole promises to reach a turnover of $350 billion by 2028 (according to ThredUp's Resale Report), fashion continues to be one of the most popular categories, driven by budget consciousness and sensibility, but also a desire to have something special, which bring the younger generation in particular towards the most popular platforms. In search of the icons of the great maisons, but also of creations by the research brands.

Taking stock of the best-loved second-hand fashion and luxury brands is the "Guide to pre-loved fashion" report published by Vestiaire Collective, the platform launched in 2009 and leader in the sale of second-hand fashion and luxury brands. Analysing the performance of 400 brands in its catalogue according to specific parameters, Vestiaire Collective has developed the Vestiaire Value Ranking, a ranking based on the growth of a brand's value over the last five years, degree of engagement and number of negotiations between seller and buyer.

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In the ranking of luxury brands, Chanel is in first place with a score of 1404, followed by Louis Vuitton (1227), Hermès (1156), Gucci (1049). Dior (552) is in fifth place, followed by Prada (536), Saint Laurent (456). Closing the top 10 were Celine with 337 points, Bottega Veneta with 322 and Balenciaga with 312.

When it comes to designer brands, The Row leads the way as the fastest growing brand, boasting a 27% CAGR resale value over the past five years, supported by the growth of the quiet luxury trend, and ranked second in its category after Moncler and followed by Brunello Cucinelli. In the ranking to rise the most, by three positions, is Acne Studios, while losing as many positions is Jacquemus.

Finally, for brands in the premium category, Polène ranks first in terms of interest with the highest average of 43 'likes' per product, followed by long-time favourites Golden Goose and Ganni, respectively ranked 1st and 8th in the Top 10 for the category, in which Etro climbs four places, Ami nine and Isabel Marant Etoile five.

Vestiaire Collective has then defined, still respecting the division into categories, which are the creations with the greatest increases in resale value: in luxury, Hermès ranks first with the Birkin 25, showing a Cagr (average annual growth rate) of 40%, together with Bulgari's Serpenti ring (Cagr of 51%), followed by Dior's Lady Dior with a Cagr of 25% and Chanel's Timeless whose Cagr is 17%.

In the under EUR 500 selection, a vintage YSL blazer (Cagr of 22%), a classic Burberry trench coat (Cagr of 11%) or the Bandana 55 scarf by Hermès (Cagr of 21%) dominate. Meanwhile, over the past five years, both Paco Rabanne's iconic 1969 handbag and Gucci's Jordaan loafers have consistently maintained their value, demonstrating a stable appeal in the fashion market.

Also interesting is a study of the data on the most popular and sought-after trends: in terms of colours, mousse mocha, powder pink, butter yellow and ice blue are the most sought-after, while soft, wearable shades dominate outerwear, jumpers and accessories. For silhouettes, 80s character suits, balloon skirts by Chloé, preppy overlays inspired by Miu Miu and sculptural garments are highly sought after. Oversized bags are preferred, kitten heels are back, barn jackets are a unisex trend, animal prints remain a resale favourite.

"This report highlights how resale is no longer a secondary option and is driving the way consumers experience and access luxury and designer fashion today," says Sophie Hersan, co-founder and Fashion Director of Vestiaire Collective, in a note accompanying the report. Sustainability remains at the core of what we do, and pre-loved fashion is also about accessibility; therefore we guide our community by providing the best advice on what to buy, allowing our fans to discover and make choices whose value will endure over time'. (Ch.B.)

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