Wine

Fontanfredda withstands the crisis thanks to organic farming, links with the land and differentiation

Turnover up 6.8% to 70 million, plus 5 million from hospitality. Andrea Farinetti: in our range vibi with high quality at a lower than average price

by Emiliano Sgambato

Tenute Fontanafredda

4' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

4' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

There are many ways to enhance a wine through its link with its terroir. The prerequisite is undoubtedly to respect its peculiarities and the environment that hosts the vineyards. This is a goal that the Farinetti family's management of the historic Fontanafredda estates has been pursuing for some time, but now the identity aspect is becoming increasingly important in a context of declining wine consumption (and reputation).

The Strategy of Tenacity

"The crisis is powerful," says Oscar Farinetti, "with consumption dropping from 250 million hectolitres to 200 million from 2019 to date. The reasons? Firstly, we have all gone a bit overboard because good wine has become too expensive, especially in restaurants. The second is that while 30% of the world's citizens considered wine harmful in 2019, now they have become 60%. We always complain in life but we want to live 120 years. Third reason: Many young people consider wine an old man's stuff'.

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How do we get out of this? "We must react with Tenacity". This explains the word - Tenacity - associated this year with the fifth edition of 'Renaissance, Illustrious Words for a New Humanity', linked to the 2022 vintage of Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d'Alba. Oscar Farinetti declines it in a strategy: "To be able to make wines from 20, 30, 40 euro, as good as those from a hundred or a thousand"; to make a move "to go and conquer the markets of 200 countries in the world"; and, above all, "to build a strong identity of Italian beverages", which must reflect "our ability to live well and for a long time all over the world".

Identity and Territory

The way to pursue these goals for Fontanafredda cannot be separated from a very careful approach to sustainability, which passes first of all with the conversion to organic farming: "Many thought it impossible to convert 12o hectares, but here we are proving the contrary," reiterates Andrea, Oscar's son, who is more closely involved with the historic estates. And sustainability also involves many other aspects, ranging from reforestation of the land to the production and use of clean energy. Or from cultural projects such as "Lost to be found", which places Monumental sculptures by Giuseppe Carta between the rows of vines as an appeal to safeguard the biodiversity of the Langhe.

And also from the rediscovery of the peculiarities of the single vineyards: "Back to the single vineyards", the return to the single interpretations of Nebbiolo initiated with the rebirth, in the 2019 vintage, of the historic vineyards Vigna La Villa (Mga Paiagallo) and Vigna La Delizia (Mga Lazzarito) that join the always-produced Vigna La Rosa, and that from this year is expanded with three new "cru" from the 2022 vintage: Vigna Bianca and Vigna San Pietro in Mga Fontanafredda and Proprietà in Gallaretto, "expressions of different terroirs within the same geographical area; each with unique characteristics of soil, climate, altitude and exposure".

Business results

An approach that also pays off in terms of economic results: "Last year we grew by 6.8% in terms of turnover, to 70 million," says Andrea Farietti, "excluding hospitality, which is worth 5 million (to which must be added 11.5 million realised by the partners working in the Villaggio Narrante, ed.) and which is a constantly growing item, considering that ten years ago we were at zero, because the village was a closed place that we have reopened in a constant dialigo with the inhabitants of the Langhe and tourists.

"As far as sales are concerned," he continues, "the product mix has changed slightly, because purchasing power is decreasing not only in Italia, but also in the rest of the world. The segment suffering the most is the medium segment, but fortunately last year we launched 'fine wines' that have the quality of the high at the prices of the medium. We are optimistic because there is a planning that starts from afar. We believe we will grow further. We are the first private producers of both Barolo (therefore excluding co-ops and bottlers, ed.) with one million bottles compared to 150,000 in 2007 when we took over the winery and of Alta Langa (the classic method sparkling wines of Piedmont, ed.) and if these have been growing for some time now, it is a sign of a market that rewards bubbles, we have also grown in the other whites (we have six indigenous whites from the area, for example Timorasso Derthona, as well as types such as Riesling and Chardonnay) and above all we have held up very well in Barolo, which is also growing slightly, since the reds is the category that is suffering the most: in fact, we recorded a minus sign in the category average".
Fontanafredda exports about 50% of its production, but if we exclude Asti Spumante the share rises to 80%, to 105 countries worldwide.

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