For the Italian textile industry, 2026 will be the year of recovery

The most critical phase of the Italian textile industry has been overcome: this is the conviction of Simone Canclini, managing director of the family business, leader in cotton fabrics in the Como district and this year celebrating its first century, as well as president of Milano Unica and the Italian Textile Foundation. Faced with a drop of 8.8% in 2024, "according to the first estimates of Confindustria Moda our textile-fashion industry will close 2025 at -3%. - he says -. And just in the last period we have recorded a recovery, albeit timid, that gives us hope". The scenario for the next two years is one of the topics that will be discussed at the inauguration of the next edition of Milano Unica, from 20 to 22 January, brought forward from the traditional appointment at the beginning of February so as not to overlap with the opening days of Milano-Cortina 2026 and where the spring-summer 2027 collections will be presented.

In the last three editions, despite the industry slowdown, the fair has recorded continuously growing numbers: "Even in the January edition (the 42nd, ndr) we will confirm the record in terms of area and exhibitors," adds Canclini. "We have become a reference point for the sector because we have very clearly set the criteria for selecting companies, which must be of excellent quality. Unfortunately we reject many applications, but it is a winning choice also for buyers, who come to Milan with the certainty of finding an offer of the highest quality. We are an exhibitors' fair, we are not interested in filling the aisles with visitors. And if Milano Unica has gained this leadership it is also because textile entrepreneurs have understood the importance of teamwork'.

Quality also remains the fundamental factor in the resilience of our textile manufacturing: 'We are the most important manufacturing district in Europe, the only one with vertical competences,' he emphasises. 'Textile companies are leaders in creativity, sustainability; we are flexible, capable of producing small as well as large batches, and of dialoguing with large luxury brands as well as with fast fashion. However, energy costs are still very high, 30% higher than the European average, and the small size of the companies prevents appropriate investments in innovation and new technologies'.

By the way, 2025 also saw the closing of important partnerships between big brands and Italian textile companies: in April Chanel entered the capital of Mantero (after having taken over 24.5% of lanificio Cariaggi, together with Brunello Cucinelli, in 2023), while a few weeks ago came the news of Hermès' participation in Lanificio Colombo. 'The big brands want to secure the supply chain of excellence and safeguard production know-how,' Canclini notes. 'I believe that these acquisitions will continue, and that they are useful if conducted with winning logic for both parties. We must always remember that the merit of the splendid creations we see in the shop windows is certainly due to designers and artisans, but also to textile manufacturers, companies that produce with hands, head, but above all great heart and passion'.

Supporting the Italian textile system is also a virtuous relationship with institutions, first and foremost the Ice Agency and Maeci, which help companies build an international dimension, with trade fairs abroad and crucial contacts with buyers: "Much has been done, but there are two urgent measures to be taken: the government must introduce the extended responsibility of the textile manufacturer as soon as possible, which will bring new resources to invest in the necessary innovation, generating a virtuous mechanism also in the sense of circularity. And I hope that the Strategic Plan recently presented by Confindustria Moda to the government will be implemented as soon as possible'.