Textile industry

Wool is increasingly in demand and is even making its way into luxury underwear

Consumers are favouring natural fibres, and brands are responding with new types of products, such as the lingerie collection designed by Wolford and Woolmark

Capi della collezione Wolford e Woolmark

3' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

3' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

Forget the rough jumpers that every child used to have to wear at the start of autumn: by 2026, wool can also be used to create light, soft and luxurious underwear. The new collaboration between Wolford and Woolmark – a capsule collection of garments made from 100 per cent or 85 per cent merino wool – marks a significant innovation in the uses of the fibre, ranging from clothing to the automotive industry, from sportswear to interior design. ‘Although it has been used for millennia, wool is a high-tech fibre,’ says Francesco Magri, Woolmark’s manager for Central and Eastern Europe. For example, it offers the best moisture regulation, retains 66 per cent less odour than polyester, and is 95 per cent biodegradable after 15 weeks. That is why we have named our new campaign ‘Natural Intelligence’, through which we aim to raise awareness amongst businesses and consumers about the many benefits of wool.”

Based on a survey conducted by Ipsos across five countries, Woolmark (which promotes and certifies the quality of Australian merino wool) has also highlighted that 82 per cent of consumers surveyed prefer garments made from natural fibres and 67 per cent are willing to pay more to buy them: this is one of the reasons why demand for wool is on the rise worldwide, despite the fact that, according to the latest Textile Exchange report, its production accounts for just 0.7 per cent of the total, with polyester dominating at 59 per cent.

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“Concerns about microplastics are certainly fuelling the growing preference for natural fibres,” continues Magri. “Today, sustainability is not just about caring for the environment, but also about caring for ourselves. A telling trend is emerging in Japan: ‘healthness’ clothing – garments that help people stay healthy – is booming. It is a category that is certainly set to expand, and wool will prove to be the perfect fibre for it.” Undoubtedly, the new applications for wool are driving the production of finer microns, with an increase in demand particularly for Ultra and Super Fine wools – that is, those under 18.6 microns – which account for the majority of Australian production, which this year is down by 10 per cent compared with the previous year but is of ever-higher quality, thanks in part to investments in breed improvement that began some 30 years ago.

Rising global demand is also prompting other countries to invest in sheep farming: in 2024, the UK launched the ‘Great British Wool Revival’ project, and more recently, the American Sheep Industry Association launched a competition for ideas to revive the country’s now-lost wool industry. In Italia, the Fila Observatory – Sustainable Production Chain for Native Wools, established at the University of Chieti-Pescara, has just been nominated for the ADI Compasso d’Oro 2026 award in the ‘Research for Business’ category.

“Production from other countries is welcome, to support global demand,” notes Magri, “but when it comes to the quality most in demand, the Australian environment is unique, particularly due to its climatic and natural characteristics.”

Today, around 85 per cent of the island’s output is exported to China for the initial stages of processing: ‘Rising labour costs are opening up new markets, such as Vietnam,’ notes the manager. Italia, with its centres of excellence in the Biella area, is performing very well, as is Portugal, where exports are seeing double-digit growth, driven by its specialisation in jersey production, which is the most sought-after for new applications of wool.” However, some critical issues within the system remain, as highlighted by PETA’s anti-wool protest at the COS fashion show in New York. Today, only 4.5 per cent of the wool produced is certified under the Responsible Wool Standard, the most widely used protocol: “Woolmark is not a certification body; we focus on other parts of the supply chain by ensuring the quality of the wool, investing in understanding its characteristics, and supporting farmers,” he concludes. “For them, animal welfare is a priority, because it guarantees the survival of their business.”

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  • Chiara Beghelli

    Chiara BeghelliRedattore

    Luogo: Roma

    Lingue parlate: inglese, spagnolo

    Argomenti: moda, lifestyle, lusso

    Premi: Premio Penna Arcobaleno (2011) - Premio Stampa Moda Movie (2019) - Premio Casato Prime Donne (2022) - Premio Roma Fashion White sezione "Libri di Moda" (2025)

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