Lotto Counter No. 10: the taste of freedom lies hidden in the folds of a dress
In the tailoring workshop set up inside the Giudecca women’s prison, the inmates learn to make clothes from scratch and gain skills that will be useful to them on their release
There are garments that tell precious stories and hold a wealth of meaning: they are not merely fabric and stitching, but capture the longing for a future that is (still) possible and the quest for a new freedom. Among the colourful jackets, circle skirts and vintage-style dresses they carefully craft, the inmates of the women’s prison on Giudecca, in Venice, have found a place where learning a trade can help them rediscover themselves and make a fresh start.
Working as a tailor
Banco Lotto No. 10, the tailoring workshop within the prison, was established in 2003 and has been run by the social cooperative Il Cerchio Onlus for over twenty years. Amidst the workbenches of the workshop, where ethical fashion and restorative justice work in synergy, the women learn to cut, sew and construct a garment from scratch; and, by taking part in the production process, they become accustomed to handling various tasks and responsibilities. With a view to a reintegration aimed at empowerment and the acquisition of skills that can be put to use in the wider world once their sentence has been served.
A pathway (from learning to regular paid employment) built on method and strategy, but also on a constructive dialogue between those who teach and those who create. An exchange of ideas that goes beyond mere practical training. ‘We work with the girls five days a week, for half a day. Alongside me – who is responsible for developing and cutting the patterns – they learn the art of bespoke tailoring, the operational heart of our business,” explains Margherita Uliana, artistic director of the atelier. ‘Our creative process begins directly with the raw material: most of the fabrics we use are donated to us, and thus become mood boards and the main source of inspiration for future collections and garments. We begin by analysing the materials, evaluating the options together and translating them into designs.”
There is also an attempt to break the monotony of days that risk all blending together, and to find satisfaction in something tangible. “We always start with a little ritual: we go in, gather the scissors and tools we need, and then there’s the meticulous stock-taking – a necessary step before opening the tailor’s shop. Once that’s done, we put some music on, sit down and start working in peace,” continues Uliana. “As with any job, of course, there are problems to deal with, but the actual making process is a truly special moment.”
The production process is organised in such a way that each female prisoner – who is only taken on as a permanent employee after a one-year apprenticeship – can oversee the creation of a garment from start to finish. There are no fixed production targets to meet, and the fabrics used – supplied largely by a leading Venetian artisan, Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua – are mostly shantung silk, wool, linen and cotton. ‘To empower them and reward them as much as possible, we have chosen not to split up the production process,’ explains Adriano Toniolo, the cooperative’s head of prison projects. “Each prisoner, therefore, works on a single garment from start to finish: in this way, she learns all the necessary steps. And she can, in a sense, put her own stamp on the garment she has made.”
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