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Marsala, so famous and so unknown: here's why it is a historic and special wine

The fame of Italian oenology owes much to this Sicilian champion, born of an English commercial intuition: here's how to learn about it and how to combine it

by Cristiana Lauro

14 March 2026

Marsala, famoso ma tutto da scoprire tra storia e abbinamenti sorprendenti

4' min read

Translated by AI

Versione italiana

4' min read

Translated by AI

Versione italiana

Marsala is one of the most famous Italian wines in the world and, at the same time, a wine that teveryone thinks they know and yet hardly anyone drinks seriously. Everyone has heard of it, many have used it in the kitchen at least once, but few have taken the time to understand what an extraordinary wine it really is.

And yet the fame of Italian oenology owes much to this Sicilian champion, curiously born of an English commercial intuition.

In the second half of the 18th century British merchant John Woodhouse, being in Trapani, discovered the local wine and decided to fortify it by adding alcohol to ensure its preservation during the journey to England. The operation worked very well: the British liked Marsala immediately, also because they were already great admirers of Iberian fortified wines, from Port to Madeira.

A bit of history

Actually, that this area was particularly suited for wine production had already been understood by the Romans and, before them, the Phoenicians. The island of Mozia, today under the protection of the Whitaker Foundation - another historic family linked to Marsala - still preserves precious evidence of that ancient vocation. If you happen to pass that way, a visit is definitely worthwhile.
It was, however, with Woodhouse that Marsala began its true international career.

In 1832 an Italian protagonist entered the scene: Vincenzo Florio, originally from Bagnara Calabra. Florio immediately realised the potential of that wine, which was reminiscent of the fortified wines so loved by the English market, and decided to invest seriously in it. It was a far-sighted choice. In a short time Marsala enjoyed a season of great success and other families followed suit: Rallo, Martinez, Curatolo Arini, Pellegrino, Lombardo, Mirabella. Names that still today tell the productive history of the area.

The fortune of Marsala was such that it also won over illustrious personalities. It is said that Admiral Nelson was a great admirer, while Giuseppe Garibaldi even gave his name to a type that has remained famous.

Glory, decline and rebirth

Then, as often happens with great wines, came the less glorious moment. In the twentieth century Marsala slowly slipped from being a prestigious wine to a culinary ingredient - that of escalopes, to be clear - thanks to overly casual production and some decidedly inelegant speculation. A fate that, unfortunately, in the history of wine is not at all uncommon: when success becomes too easy, quality gets the bill.

The rebirth began in the 1980s, when stricter regulations and the work of a few enlightened producers restored Marsala's lost dignity. Among these it is impossible not to mention Marco De Bartoli, a key figure in the qualitative recovery of this astonishing wine.

The grapes used to produce Marsala are almost all white. Grillo, Catarratto and Insolia - in most cases - unlike its great antagonist, Port, which comes mainly from red varieties.

From these vines, cultivated in the sunny vineyards of the province of Trapani, comes a wine with an unmistakable personality: complex, profound, capable of evolving in the glass with an aromatic range that ranges from dried fruit to spices, from candied citrus fruits to iodine notes.

From a technical point of view, the classification of Marsala is mainly based on ageing and alcoholic strength; another distinction concerns residual sugar, which is what consumers are most familiar with.
It starts with Marsala Fine, with at least one year of ageing and a minimum alcohol content of 17%, and then comes Superiore, which requires two years and at least 18% alcohol. This is followed by the Superiore Riserva (four years), the Vergine or Soleras (five years) and the Vergine Stravecchio or Riserva, which cannot be marketed before ten years.
Marsala is Secco when it contains less than 40 grams of sugar per litre, Semi-dry between 40 and 100 grams and Dolce above this threshold.

Some categories also include historical acronyms that are less and less used today. If this rapid parade of classifications has made you yawn, know that the average consumer was bored long before you were. And that is also why Marsala went through a long season of disaffection, before returning to the limelight thanks to stubborn and passionate producers.

The (unexpected) matches

Do not think, however, that Marsala is only a wine for the end of a meal, as a certain somewhat lazy tradition has often relegated it. It is actually a surprisingly eclectic wine, capable of much broader pairings.

Try, for example, the Marsala Vergine - the driest of them all - with a seafood aperitif: anchovies, oysters or smoked fish dialogue perfectly with its savoury palate.

The notes of bread crust, dried fruit and honey that usually characterise Marsala Secco can accompany a saffron risotto or even an aubergine parmigiana with unexpected elegance.

Sweet and sour pork, tortelli cremaschi or mantovani find a good ally in Marsala Semisecco, without forgetting what is perhaps still the most convincing pairing: blue cheeses.

Finally, the Marsala Dolce, the most enveloping. Here traditional Sicilian sweets and dark chocolate are almost obligatory pairings. But a less predictable pairing is also worth trying: Gorgonzola or, more generally, a blue cheese.

Marsala is not a distracted wine. It requires a little attention and perhaps even a pinch of curiosity. But when you encounter it at the right moment, it can provide one of the most fascinating experiences a glass can offer. And this, after all, is the fate of great wines.