Michelin: three new two-star restaurants in the 2027 guide. Uliassi loses its third star

From this year onwards, the ‘Green Stars’ dedicated to sustainability have been abolished, whilst the following special prizes have been awarded as usual. The 5 Passion Desserts: Verso, Lorelei, Orma Roma, Quid, Charleston by Giovanni Solofra. Service: Stefania Lepore, Casa Klopè by Luigi Lepore. Sommelier: Andrea Bravaccini, Ristorante Del Lago. New Opening of the Year: Juan Camilo Quintero, Quid. Young Chef: Simone Lezzerini, N’uovo vino e cucina.

‘What particularly impressed our inspectors this year is the way in which Italia’s culinary heritage continues to evolve without losing sight of its roots. Across the country, chefs are rediscovering regional recipes, showcasing local ingredients and traditional techniques, whilst bringing their own contemporary vision to the table. This dialogue between tradition and modernity is one of the great strengths of Italian gastronomy, and the 2027 selection reveals it in all its vitality and diversity,” commented Gwendal Poullennec, International Director of the Michelin Guide.

The Michelin-starred culinary world – which, according to a study carried out for the guide itself by JFC in 2024, generated 500 million in economic benefits for the country – can only be the foremost ambassador for Italian agri-food excellence. All the more so following the recognition of Italian cuisine as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, it is hard not to believe that it is high-end dining that should stimulate and guide the entire sector, despite the fact that it is currently undergoing a period of identity change.

After all, the ‘Michelin-starred’ restaurants represent the pinnacle of a market which, whilst not currently enjoying a particularly bright spell due to cuts in household spending that are causing their purchasing power to plummet, is nonetheless, to quote the summary used by Fipe Confcommercio President Lino Enrico Stoppani for the presentation of the ‘Ristorazione 2026’ report, ‘a fundamental part of the country’s economy, with 324,436 active businesses, down slightly on the previous year (-1%), serving a market that is now set to reach 100 billion euros in 2025, representing a 3.7 per cent increase in value compared with 2024’. The catering sector also remains a key driver of employment, “with over one million employees, though this figure is down by 10 per cent compared with the previous year: another trend – this time negative – that has been confirmed, as labour shortages have for more than five years become the sector’s Achilles’ heel, with a lack of qualified staff’.

Although the dynamics of more traditional establishments (full-service restaurants) according to Deloitte are far less impressive than offerings such as those of casual dining from restaurant chains (which are, however, still ‘full-service’ and should not be confused with fast food), traditional dining still plays a dominant role and cannot ignore certain pioneering trends that are driving its evolution, even if their lack of success from a strictly economic point of view is sometimes highlighted.

The choice of Emilia-Romagna as the venue for the presentation is a vivid example of the link between the catering sector and the wealth of agri-food products that Italia wishes to export to the world. “With its 46 PDO and PGI products,” noted Alessio Mammi, Emilia-Romagna’s Regional Councillor for Agriculture, during the event’s presentation, “the region reaffirms its status as Italia’s Food Valley. A heritage worth 3.9 billion euros for the PDO economy alone. Overall, the regional agri-food sector generates a production value of 37 billion euros, with 11.5 billion in exports.”

“Given the clientele it caters for and the extensive media coverage surrounding it,” added the Regional Councillor for Tourism, Sport and Trade, Roberta Frisoni, “Michelin-starred cuisine is an effective promotional tool and a source of international appeal for Emilia-Romagna and its tourist heritage, from Motor Valley to the Cities of Art, as well as a powerful driver of economic growth. There is no better place than our Food Valley – unique in the world – to host the presentation of the Guide that recognises Italian culinary excellence.”