More sustainable jeans with recycling, new fibres and conscious consumption

Almost 34 kg of CO2 emitted into the atmosphere, a consumption of 3,781 litres of water and 12 square metres of land: this is the environmental impact of producing a pair of jeans according to a 2022 study by the University of Groningen, according to which 1% of global greenhouse gas emissions can be attributed to this industry, which produces an estimated 2 billion pairs each year.

A huge ecological footprint, which poses urgent challenges to the entire supply chain, from cotton cultivation to responsible consumption: "Producing quality denim involves engaging in an eco-responsible production," stressed Florence Rousson, President of the Board of Directors of Première Vision, the international clothing fabrics show, which twice a year organises Denim Première Vision in Milan, an exhibition dedicated to innovation in this category, which has just closed in the spaces of Superstudio Più with over 2,000 visitors from 41 countries, attracted by the novelties of the 80 international guest companies and representatives of the entire supply chain, from spinners to finishing experts to creators of new technologies. 'The challenges are considerable, the initiatives, new regulations and innovations numerous,' continued Rousson. 'We have to be at the forefront of these major changes. The global jeanswear market, which is expected to reach $80 billion next year, has been one of the forerunners of the profound change in fashion in general, demonstrating its resilience, inventiveness and modernity'.

Modernity that passes above all through the search for sustainability. Also at this edition (the next one will be held in December) the debate on the use of alternative fibres to cotton was in the foreground: linen and hemp, for example, but also jute, nettle and ramie, which require very little water, fertilisers and pesticides compared to ordinary cotton and can be harvested not once but five times a year. Lenzing's Ecovero viscose is based on cellulose from certified forests and reduces water consumption by 50 per cent, while Evnru's NuCycl is a recycled lyocell fibre, and the fibre developed by Spiber, a Japanese biomaterials company, is developed from proteins fermented in the laboratory. For fibres of synthetic origin, in the foreground is the use of Seaqual, a fibre bearing the same name as the Spanish organisation that produces it from 10% marine plastic waste and 90% post-consumer Pet, such as the Econyl (nylon yarn regenerated from waste) by Aquafil and Q-Cycle from former tyres by Fulgar. To reduce their impact, companies are also engaged in the recovery of pre- and post-consumer resources, and the substitution of synthetic-based pigments with mineral-based ones or those derived from agricultural waste is becoming more widespread.

Also grappling with the more sustainable future of denim were the students of Ied and Naba who signed the 'Project Tomorrow' collection, interpreting the trends identified by the event team and in collaboration with Italian excellences such as the Titanus and Berto weaving mills and manufacturers such as FashionArt, with Bap Group buttons and Emmetex labels.