Piero Antinori: 'Alcohol-free wine is not to be condemned a priori'
The renowned producer: 'Not an option for our vineyards, but a possibility for consumers and against overproduction'
3' min read
3' min read
'Alcohol-free wines? Why not'. It cannot be called an endorsement, however, the mere opening to dealcoholised (or dealcoholised) wines by Marchese wine producer Piero Antinori, perhaps the most famous Italian wine producer, a true standard bearer of Italian quality abroad, is probably the first major achievement of this new frontier of wine production, to which Minister Lollobrigida also opened up in recent weeks.
"Let's be clear right away," explains Antinori, "I certainly don't see it as an option for our company and our production, but for Italian wine yes. It is a fast-growing slice of the market abroad. If we Italians do not respond to this demand, others will but, above all, alcohol-free or low-alcohol wines can represent a chance of sustainability for the Italian vineyard'.
Some will be surprised at this position...In fact, I would have preferred these products not to be called 'wine'. But it has been decided to allow them to do so and so I ask that at least a clear definition be provided on the label: that they be called dealcoholised or dealcoholised wines in a font and size that guarantees unambiguous consumer information.
Beyond zero alcohol, don't you think low alcohol is an interesting avenue? Easier to implement and capable of intercepting new slices of consumers. True. Until now, wines with low alcohol content have not been taken sufficiently into consideration and instead can meet health requirements on the one hand (less alcohol and calories) and organoleptic requirements on the other. Alcohol, in fact, is not only a component of wine but its backbone, a kind of vehicle capable of carrying aromas. This is why it is not easy to make zero-alcohol wines. Research will certainly find suitable solutions but, in the meantime, the category of wines with reduced alcohol content may offer an answer. I think that these types of product can meet new slices of consumers and represent a first step on the path towards real wine. They should not be demonised, therefore, but considered a further arrow to the bow of Italian wine.
What if it is just a passing fad?
Of course, it is likely. Wine is an industry subject to fads. Does anyone remember wine coolers? It seemed like they were going to catch on and instead it was a flare-up. For a few years there was a lot of space for 'new' wine, which now few produce and even fewer buy. Frankly, I hope that 'NoLo' wines, no alcohol and low alcohol, are not a momentary fad and can be counted on as a long-term strategy.
