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Pitti Filati, innovation and investment in companies' strategies

From Cariaggi to Pecci to Lineapiù, the voices of companies that are facing the difficult economic situation with confidence

by Silvia Pieraccini

3' min read

3' min read

The Italian knitting yarn industry, gathered at the Pitti Filati exhibition in Florence (1-3 July), is looking for ways out of the market impasse that has been severely straining companies' balance sheets for several seasons now. The Ethica Global Investments fund, which in 2020 had acquired the Prato-based Lanificio dell'Olivo and in 2022 the Novara-based Manifattura Sesia, last March made it a trio by acquiring the Biella-based Servizi e Seta, specialised in pure silk yarns and blends with noble fibres.

At the helm of the group christened Filidarte, which now has 180 employees and an aggregate 2024 turnover of 66 million with ebitda at 10%, since 1 April there has been Alberto Enoch, former managing director of Servizi and Seta, who explains: "We want to create synergies, and for this reason we have started 14 work tables on the various operational areas to integrate organisation and production, while maintaining the different corporate identities. The goal is to reach EUR 90 million in revenues within three to four years and to improve margins by raising ebitda to 15%. To do this today it is essential to give good customer service'. Already this year Filidarte aims to grow, even if the market does not shine.

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In Prato, in particular, the specialisation in fancy yarns is penalising the companies: '2025 is a difficult year,' explain Pierluigi Marrani and Roberta Pecci of the Pecci Filati group, 24 million turnover expected in 2025 (-6%), 'in which those who are well placed from the financial point of view will hold out. Prato is suffering the market difficulties of fancy yarns, which are more recognisable and therefore less chosen in times of crisis because customers do not want to risk having products they cannot put back on the shelves'.

L’installazione “Le parole del filo” di Felice Limosani per i 50 anni di Lineapiù

He tries to ward off the turbulence by celebrating 50 years of innovation and creativity Lineapiù, a company founded in 1975 by Giuliano Coppini in Capalle (Campi Bisenzio, Florence), since 2010 in the hands of Alessandro Bastagli: "Celebrating 50 years of history," he says, "means reflecting on our roots but above all relaunching a vision: we work every day to innovate in the name of quality, excellence and a creativity that knows how to speak to the world.

The Gualtieri family's Filpucci focuses on accessible but still chic luxury interpreted by alpaca: 'We want to tell our vision of the future of fashion,' explains Federico Gualtieri, 'with certified yarns, to guarantee the production chain and social and environmental responsibility, and with yarns that are meant to last. Today a high quality product must contain all these elements and our customers are following us on this path'.

The two leaders in Italian spinning continue their march, the Marche-based Cariaggi (which, alongside the family of the same name, has Chanel and Brunello Cucinelli among its shareholders with 24.5% each), specialised in fine yarns, and the Biella-basedZegna Baruffa, specialised in wool yarns. The former, after closing 2024 with a turnover of 121 million, posted -2% in the first half of this year, but is not wrapping its head around it: 'The luxury knitwear sector is holding up,' explains Cristiana Cariaggi, 'and we continue to invest in machinery and production space to improve products and service. Zegna Baruffa also continues to invest, which closed the first half of the year with +3%: "The context, however, remains uncertain," explains CEO Lorenzo Piacentini, "although we are hoping for last minute orders and we are relaunching our cashwool, a 100% wool yarn but with such a soft hand that it resembles cashmere: it accounts for 60% of our production because it has a versatility of use that, at times like these, can be useful.

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