The MoLI and the much-loved Howth Castle

The following day, after visiting the MoLI – the museum dedicated to Irish literature, which, alongside numerous rooms brimming with interactive screens, even houses the first copy of James Joyce’s *Ulysses* – and having strolled around the Hoey’s Court area, near Dublin Castle, where Swift was born on 30 November 1667 – the house has since been destroyed; it stood at number 7, where a commemorative plaque now stands – you can set off towards the northern coast, framed by Dublin Bay. It will be easy to spot the medieval and seemingly forbidding silhouette of Howth Castle, home to the noble St Lawrence dynasty, who were closely linked to the author of *Gulliver’s Travels*, who was often invited to dine with the most eminent and learned members of this family, whose castle stands above a seaside village easily accessible by train from the centre of the capital. The castle is open to visitors in most of its rooms, where time truly seems to have stood still since the 18th century: Almeric, the founder, is said to have built the castle of timber overlooking the harbour, which was converted into its present form as early as 1235, although the oldest rooms date back to the 15th century, whilst Kenelm’s Tower, perhaps the most significant architectural feature, took shape during the Victorian era, and is complemented by Gaisford Tower, built at the end of the west wing to house the library. During guided tours, visitors are also taken to explore the grounds, where the autumn colours are showcased by the centuries-old trees of this picturesque estate.