Wine Pills

What wine should you drink in the (hot) summer? A few tips free from the usual dogmas

From white wines to rosés and sparkling wines – and why not reds too? – you just need to approach them with the right attitude at the right time, without getting too ideological about it

Vini per l’estate: non conta il colore, ma la freschezza

3' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

3' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

Every summer, along with the heat, the wine experts return. As punctual as mosquitoes, they remind us what we can and cannot drink: red wine is off limits, sparkling wine is only for celebrations, rosé is a half-baked wine, and ice in your glass is a matter for the UN to address.

The truth is much simpler: d’estate wine should be less ideological and much more enjoyable.

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Let’s start with a great classic: Vermentino. It tastes of the sea even when the sea is two hundred kilometres away. Citrus, Mediterranean scrub, a lovely savoury note and that ability to make even spaghetti with clams seem sophisticated. Or a fish barbecue. Or that impromptu dinner that, just five minutes earlier, was supposed to be ‘just an aperitif’.

The Pinot Bianco is one of those wines that doesn’t feel the need to take centre stage. Elegant, fresh and well-balanced. It goes beautifully with a caprese salad, fish, vegetables or a chicken salad. It never makes a fuss but, when the bottle is empty, there’s always someone who asks: “What was that?”.

The Verdicchio is one of the most underrated white wines we have. Fresh, savoury, with a lovely character and a rare ability to complement a meal. Sushi, tartare, shellfish, delicate risottos, but even a simple mozzarella and tomato dish: it’s hard to go wrong with it.

The Etna Bianco continues to work its own unique magic. It comes from Sicily but is often mistaken for a wine from the north, such is its tautness and vertical structure. Proof that the volcano produces much more than just beautiful photographs.

The Fiano is for those looking for a white wine with a little more body. It pairs perfectly with seared tuna, seafood pasta or chicken with aromatic herbs. In other words: when dinner gets serious, this wine doesn’t let you down.

Rosé wines. They continue to be the victims of one of the most baffling prejudices in Italian wine. There are still those who regard them as a compromise. In reality, they are a category with a very distinct personality and, in summer, among the most versatile. Prosciutto and melon, poke bowls, couscous, pizza, Asian cuisine: they always seem to be the perfect match.

Of all of them, the Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo deserves a special mention. It has character, freshness and a versatility that allows it to pair with everything from fish soup to cured meats with an almost irritating ease. It is one of those wines that should be drunk much more often and explained much less.

Then come the sparkling wines. And here we need to clear up a national misconception: they were invented to be drunk, not to be saved for designated festive occasions. A good Italian Metodo Classico with raw fish, oysters, fried food or even a bowl of homemade crisps is one of the few certainties worth defending.

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Even Prosecco, every now and then, deserves to be judged on what’s in the glass rather than on the number of aperitifs it has been served alongside. When it’s done well, it’s floral, immediate and pleasant. Not everything that appeals to the masses has to necessarily appeal less to the experts.

Finally, let me put in a good word for summer reds. Yes, they do exist. You just need to choose the right ones. A Rossese di Dolceacqua, a South Tyrolean Schiava or a young Pinot Noir, served a few degrees cooler, can be far more satisfying than many whites drunk too warm. And no, twenty minutes in the fridge is not a crime against oenology. It’s simply common sense.

And whilst we’re on the subject of confessions, I’ll add another one. When it’s hot, I have no qualms about having a proper spritz of water and wine. I don’t water down the wine: I improve the water, which on its own tastes of very little.

Wine isn’t about putting on airs. It’s about spending time together and enjoying ourselves. Those who insist on the perfect glass can wait until September. Summer’s too short to spend it sulking.

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