Wine and autumn pairings, how to respect the delicacy of mushrooms and the royalty of truffles
Many possibilities, from unobtrusive reds to structured whites, but the ideal pairings are not learnt by heart, they are discovered with curiosity and lightness
Let's start right away by saying that the perfect pairing is not a mathematical formula but a game of curiosity, conviviality, good humour and desire, but also of charm and temptation when everything goes right. Autumn is the season when pairing wine with the raw materials that the period offers us becomes a little game of seduction. Mushrooms and truffles are the star ingredients with more poise and stage presence; therefore wine cannot make an appearance. No textbook anxiety though: you can look like an expert even without wearing a sommelier jacket. Take it from me, in a few simple words.
Partiamo dai funghi. Che siano porcini, chiodini, finferli o un mix selvatico da passeggiata nei boschi, i funghi amano il vino. Un po’ come noi, o mi sbaglio? L’errore più comune è quello di mettergli accanto un vino troppo robusto, muscoloso, perché si corre il rischio di coprire tutto. Meglio scegliere compagni gentili, che accarezzano “senza mordere”. Il Lagrein ad esempio, oppure un Pinot Nero (sempre altoatesino, se possibile), ma anche un Dogliani, con il risotto o le pappardelle fatte in casa coi funghi porcini fanno miracoli: freschi, profumati, con quella misura perfetta tra acidità e morbidezza che chiama anche, perché no, il secondo bicchiere.
However, there are also a number of white wines that lend themselves to this marriage, such as Chardonnays with a few years on their shoulders (not too many years, however) or Fiano di Avellino. With chanterelles, which are a little more delicate and fruity, let's say, I also see some Sauvignon as very good, without overly strong aromatic notes, as well as Vermentino or Pinot Grigio (the latter possibly from north-eastern Italy). If the chanterelles are prepared with polenta that requires the use of more elaborate sauces - or the involvement of game, for example - then a medium-bodied red wine such as Langhe Nebbiolo is better, but also a Barbera, whose acidity is perfect in situations where the mouth needs to be 'degreased'.
However, when the truffle enters the scene, the script changes. The truffle is that star of the forest - intense, dominant, magnetic - that does not want to be stolen from the stage by the wine. You can accompany the truffle, stand beside it, but always with discretion and character.
White truffle - more refined, aromatic and sensual - loves structured but not intrusive whites: Chardonnay (also Burgundy this time), Greco di Tufo, Fiano di Avellino, to return to Italy, capable of enhancing the aromas without weighing it down. However, I also see it well with light red wines such as Ghemme for example, or Pinot Noir, not too aged, perhaps from Alto Adige or Friuli.
