At Vinitaly

Wine in restaurants, Wine Cellars-Fipe Observatory to revive consumption (with an eye on price mark-ups)

The market suffers from changing habits and prices that are sometimes considered excessive. Out-of-home sales (12 billion) are four times that of supermarkets

by Giorgio dell'Orefice

Dazi, guerra, accordi: Le sfide del Vinitaly 2026

3' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

3' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

That between wine and catering is a virtuous pair. The turnover of wine in the horeca sector in fact amounts to 12 billion euro (against 3.2 in large-scale distribution), a number that represents a significant slice of the added value of the wine sector, which totals 59.3 billion.

Bars and restaurants are therefore, by far, the best performing sales channel for wine producers. But wine is also very important in the restaurant business, since sales account for more than a fifth of total turnover. The weight of wine on the average restaurant receipt amounts to 21% with peaks of over 30%. Figures of great importance and which illustrate better than words how the relationship between wine and catering cannot do without a coordinated direction.

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This is the reasoning behind the Protocol of Understanding signed at Vinitaly by the Italian Wine Union and FIPE (Italian Federation of Public Premises) and that as a first step envisages the launch of a FIPE-UIV Observatory on "Wine & Catering".

"The world of Italia wine," commented the president of the Italian Wine Union, Lamberto Frescobaldi, "lacked a tool that would allow us to better explore the dynamics with the restaurant industry, a combination that has made the fortune of Italian cuisine and wine in the world. Now is the time to leverage this synergy to make our sectors grow, starting with mutual understanding. In this first report, the need to work to better transfer the product innovation that wine expresses has already emerged,' he concluded, 'but we can and must certainly work as a team to really listen to consumers.

"Wine is a strategic element of the Italian catering offer," added the president of Fipe-Confcommercio, Lino Enrico Stoppani, "both economically and culturally, because it contributes to defining the identity and quality of the customer experience. Indeed, there is no full conviviality without accompanying the meal with a good wine. However, the Observatory's data highlight the need to invest more in training and communication, starting with the wine lists to be improved in the assortments on offer'.

"Our work starts with a quantitative analysis," added UIV secretary general Paolo Castelletti, "which we will build starting from the figure of the distributor, which makes it possible to centralise the data without reaching individual restaurants. Our members include the wine shop association Vinarius, which will also be involved. It is more difficult where distribution reaches a multiplicity of agents. But we are convinced that we will be able to build a representative sample in a short time'.

The launch of the Observatory will be the first step in a collaboration that aims to go far beyond data analysis and also touch on some critical aspects such as the issue of payment times (of wine by restaurateurs) and the price of the bottle at the table, which often has mark-ups that many consider excessive.

'The issue of payment times,' commented the vpresident of Fipe, Luciano Sbraga, 'has been overcome in the post-Cvid era. The era in which winemakers acted as a 'bank' for restaurateurs with payments deferred over a long period of time is over and today it often happens that, without advance payments, wine is not delivered. Another issue is that of prices. The restaurateur starts from an average receipt. On average in a restaurant, two people consume a dish or a dish and a half, a bottle of water and a glass of wine. People eat less and the wine charges are part of a discourse in which the restaurateur has to arrive at covering costs plus a margin. With this in mind, we are increasingly proposing drinking by the glass and tastings. Modalities that also require an effort on the training front for restaurant staff. This is the road we are going down'.

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