Walking trails, panoramic views, ancient villages: all the magic of summer in the Gulf of the Poets
Amidst narrow streets, fishermen’s houses and castles: Tellaro, Lerici and San Terenzo
As well as Montemarcello, there are three other villages that adorn the Gulf of the Poets, all of which are well worth a visit: travelling northwards along the coast, we find, in order, Tellaro, Lerici and San Terenzo. The first, also famous for the legend of the octopus (a huge cephalopod that rang the bell to warn the inhabitants of an imminent Saracen attack), is also part of the ‘Most Beautiful Villages ofItalia, owing this title to its narrow, scenic alleyways that wind down to the small harbour – still bustling today with the activities of local fishermen – and to its houses overlooking the sea. A little gem, brightened by the flowers adorning balconies and windows, best explored on foot, strolling amongst artisan shops and traditional eateries (culinary specialities include Tellarese-style octopus or La Spezia-style stuffed mussels) and stopping off at the 16th-century Church of San Giorgio, the symbol of the village, easily recognisable by its pale pink façade. Elegant and intimate, Lerici is built around its sheltered bay and the medieval castle of San Giorgio, a prime vantage point over the gulf even in ancient times, best visited at sunset before a relaxing stop at one of the seaside bars. Finally, San Terenzo retains a seafaring atmosphere that is perhaps even more intimate, fuelled by the fact that Percy Bysshe Shelley and Mary Shelley once lived here at Villa Magni: the historic centre, the castle overlooking the bay and the seaside promenade leading to the beaches of Marinella and Baia Blu – characterised by their shallow waters – are its most charming features and well worth taking the time to explore.
