Green economy

Biomaterials, from fashion to construction a true revolution

From laboratory-grown skins to San Carlo costumes made from fermented fruit waste. There is a new chain of companies

by Daniela Russo

21 May 2025

4' min read

Key points

Cellular agriculture for the leather of the future
Bio-based fashion on the San Carlo stage
Not just fashion

4' min read

From fashion to construction, via design and the medical sector: the green revolution passes through materials, which are increasingly sustainable and circular. According to the study "Scaling next-gen materials in fashion: an executive guide" by the Boston Consulting Group and Fashion for Good, materials account for about 30% of the cost of goods sold in the fashion industry and, at the same time, are responsible for more than 90% of total emissions from extraction, processing and production.

Next-generation materials, made from advanced biotechnology and recycled or bio-based materials, provide high performance while reducing environmental impact and have the potential to cover 8% of the global fibre market by 2030, or 13 million tonnes, up from 1% today. According to the analysis, large-scale adoption of these tools could reduce the cost of sales by up to 4% over the next five years, freeing up resources, but also making the supply chain more resilient by reducing the exposure of companies in the industry to supply chain disruptions and fluctuations in traditional raw material costs.

Cellular agriculture for the leather of the future

Despite the difficulties encountered due to economic, technical and operational obstacles, there are many European companies working to contribute to the transformation of the fashion industry. This is the case of Qorium, a Dutch-based biotech company that is reinventing the leather industry by using cellular agriculture to cultivate high quality leather with minimal climate impact and no cruelty to animals.

The start-up, in the portfolio of Sofinnova Partners, has achieved major milestones in the sustainable production of laboratory-grown hides, with direct effects on environmental sustainability: up to 87% less carbon emissions, elimination of methane emissions, 64% reduction in water consumption and more than 95% reduction in land use. "Much of the environmental impact is related to the avoidance of animal husbandry, but some elements relate to differences in processing, waste reduction and the elimination of certain chemicals," comments Joško Bobanović, Industrial Biotechnology Funds Sofinnova Partners.

Qorium's production process allows lab-grown leather to be obtained from animal skin cells, which are grown in a bioreactor and then on a substrate to form leather cuttings. The company has found the greatest interest from the fashion, clothing, footwear, automotive, transport and furniture industries, where the demand for high-quality, high-performance leather is significant.

Bio-based fashion on stage at the San Carlo

It is the result of Italian research ScobySkin, a material bio-fabricated by bacterial microorganisms from fruit waste, born in the Campania-based Biologic laboratory, specialised in the creation of new materials and solutions from biological growth processes. ScobySkin is made from pure nanocellulose sheets obtained by a bacterial fermentation process directly in culture tanks, using waste from fruit production, including apples, kiwis, oranges, grapes, apricots, and the canning industry.

A mouldable, sustainable and innovative bio-material for design and fashion, with a fibrillar structure between 50 and 100 nanometres organised by bacteria in a three-dimensional manner, reproducing the work done by silkworms. Fermentation allows the micro-organisms to create the warp and weft of the bio-film, which is then treated and processed using green printing and laser cutting techniques.

Biofilm, the protagonist of the costumes and jewellery staged last March at the San Carlo Theatre in Naples in Richard Strauss's Salome, can also be used in different fields: cosmetics, construction, biomedical. It is the result of five years of research and development by the laboratory set up by the collaboration between Knowledge for Business, TecUp and Medaarch, supported among others by the Ministry of Made in Italy and the Campania Region.

Not just fashion

Innovative materials are also transforming the face and production of fields other than fashion, such as medical and construction. According to estimates by Mordor Intelligence, the biomaterials market will reach a size of USD 202 billion in 2025 and USD 384 billion by 2030, with a CAGR of 13.69% over the forecast period (2025-2030). The industry is undergoing a transformation driven by global demographic changes and growing healthcare demands, which are creating unprecedented demand for advanced medical solutions.

New manufacturing techniques, in particular 3D bioprinting and nanotechnology, are enabling the development of more sophisticated and customised biomaterial solutions. The integration of intelligent polymeric medical biomaterials, which can respond to physiological parameters and external stimuli, represents a significant advance in modern medicine. These materials are increasingly being used in regenerative medicine applications, tissue engineering and targeted drug delivery systems, demonstrating the industry's shift towards more personalised healthcare solutions.

Bio-based materials also contribute to the decarbonisation of the building sector. The progressive replacement of petrochemical-derived materials with alternatives derived from renewable organic-natural resources is accelerating the transformation of the industry. Cement and concrete production is responsible for 8% of global greenhouse gas emissions. Companies such as Prometheus Materials are investing in research and development to reduce this percentage. The startup has developed a cement production process inspired by the formation of corals and marine shells. Using marine microalgae grown in open ponds through photosynthesis, carbon dioxide is absorbed, and limestone is produced through biomineralisation. It is then mixed with appropriate natural additives, resulting in a carbon-neutral cement substitute.