Holidays

Not just designer panettone: how the pastry business grows at Christmas

Sales of handcrafted panettone cakes estimated to be up by 10-15% (Apei data), but there is no shortage of innovative proposals, including nougats, chocolate and candies

by Maria Teresa Manuelli

(AdobeStock)

4' min read

4' min read

Christmas is synonymous with conviviality, warmth and, above all, sweetness. Across Europe, Christmas confectionery consumption does not seem to be afraid of the crisis and is estimated to continue growing.

Marta Boccanera, vice-president Apei-Ambassadors Pastry Chefs of Italian Excellence, predicts a significant increase in sales of artisan panettone (+10-15%) and a doubling of volumes for pandoro, despite the increase in raw material prices. And the production of more 'industrial' panettone and pandoro is also expected to grow. It is no coincidence that a Swg survey for Deliveroo shows that 66% of Italians consider panettone to be the Christmas dessert par excellence, to be shared with the family.

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In addition, "in December 2023, 85 million portions of sweets were consumed outside the home, including cakes, spoon desserts and pastries," says Matteo Figura, out of home market expert and foodservice area director for Circana Italy - with double-digit growth compared to the previous year. December is the month of highest consumption for this category with 22% more consumption than the average month in the year. For this year, although the category has slowed down during the first ten months, we expect further growth for December compared to 2023'.

The 80th anniversary of Vergani and the limited editions

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The Milanese groupVerganiccelebrating its 80th anniversarywith two new recipes combining chocolate with dates, figs and nuts. "Business is going very well, we are registering a growth of 20% compared to last year," explains Andrea Raineriof Vergani, "our forecast is to close 2024 turnover at 23 million euro, compared to 19 million in 2023 . This success is due to our ability to guarantee a handcrafted quality product even in large numbers. The growth concerns both the domestic and foreign markets:in some countries such as France, the United Kingdom, Spain and Greece, in fact, we have had to stop incoming orders as early as 15 days, unlike previous years, orders from abroad arrived as late as October, but this year we are still receiving requests, especially from the specialised retail channel. In Italy, our top sellers are the Panettone Classico, followed on a par by the gourmet recipes with chocolate (such as Cioccolato e Pere or ai Tre Cioccolati) and the Caramello Salato, which is increasingly popular.

Giovanni Cova & C., part of the Idb Group, introduces the brand BreraMilano1930, which offers limited edition lines such as the one dedicated to Puccini. Galup revisits Christmas with the Panettone Gran Galup accompanied by a tombola included in the package, while Starbucks Italia launches the Panettone Toffee Twist, embellished with caramel chocolate and sanded peanuts, born from the collaboration between Starbucks and Italo Vezzoli's artisan pastry shop, an emblem of artisan tradition for three generations.

Trends 2024: tradition and contaminations

"Classic panettone represents 40% of our sales," says Roberto Rinaldini, a member of Relais Dessert International and president of the Junior Pastry World Championship at Sigep, "but we are also growing our gourmet proposal with high-end panettone cakes such as the Dante panettone enriched with pistachio, wild strawberries and cherries, ideal for holiday lunches and for personal or corporate gifts.

 Vincente Delicacies elevates Sicilian tradition with 'Le Chic' panettone with Bronte pistachio, covered in extra dark chocolate. Dolce&Gabbana and Fiasconaro collaborate on a mandarin-flavoured panettone, while Toschi Vignola and Flamigni combine sour cherries and Nocino di Modena for a uniquely flavoured cake.

There is no shortage of surprising proposals such as the Panettone Parmigiano e Mortadella from Forno Brisa, in Bologna, or the one flavoured with Vermouth Storico Cocchi. In France, even, panettone is reinvented as an aperitif, with algae and yuzu.

Chocolate and other festive treats

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According to data from the foodtech company Tuidi, during the festive season, consumption of certain products grows exponentially. Dates record a 600% increase over the rest of the year, while sales of pandoro and panettone explode with a 189% spike during Christmas week. Not only that, digestives jumped +28%, a sign of the importance of conviviality during Christmas binges.
But Christmas is also the season of chocolate. Hence, hot chocolate recorded +200%, with significant variations depending on the weather, with a greater increase on rainy days.

Among the proposals for the festive season are those of Pernigotti and Walcor. The former relaunches Gift Packs with classic and assorted gianduiotti, pralines such as Gianduiotto with caramel and classic Gem, as well as nougats in different variations and the new Rustego. Walcor offers Advent Calendars dedicated to characters such as One Piece and Hello Kitty, along with chocolate coin nets themed Barbie, Minions and others.

Stable nougats and candies

It will be a Christmas of confirmations for nougats and candies. The two sweets that often accompany gifts and festive tables are expected to hold up well in volume, but increase in value due to inflation.

"While white nougat remains stable," emphasises Clelia Tropea, senior brand manager Sperlari Seasonal, "all the specialities that have more mouth-watering recipes, such as covered nougat or hazelnut nougat, are growing. To revitalise the classic product, the brand will launch a 'thin' and crumbly version, a way to bring young people closer to consumption, since nougat usually has an over-55 target group. Other novelties will be Zanzibar Cookies (with crunchy biscuits) and Zanzibar fondant with coffee.

For sweets, on the other hand, according to AstraRicerche for Unione Italiana Food, it is the citrus flavour (44%) that garners the most preferences among Italians. But at Christmas, green light to 'themed' collections. Like Candyland, from the historic Turin company Leone 1857, with Christmas balls and hanging tins to decorate the tree. While Chupa Chups presents Ornaments: cute little gift packets, available in the shape of a Christmas tree or a Christmas ball, enclosing a mix of candies and lollipops.

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