Plastics for wear: the use of synthetic fibres in fashion doubled in the last three years

Changing Markets Foundation points out that, compared to the 2021 survey, the degree of 'non-disclosure' of brands on the issue has increased: 54% did not answer any or only partially to any question posed by the questionnaire, compared to 17% in 2021. Approximately half of the responding brands said they intend to decrease their use of synthetic fibres, but without giving any indication of how and when. The majority of respondents said they were moving towards the use of recycled and certified fibres to reduce their share.

The brands are classified, based on their answers, in four categories, from 'leaders of change' to the 'red zone', where brands known for their commitment such as Patagonia, for years at the top of the ranking of the most virtuous B Corp, appear. On closer inspection, the report makes this judgement based not so much on the actual amount of synthetic fibres used, but on an alleged lack of transparency about its own activities, the same criterion that also places Lvmh, the world's largest luxury group and certainly not the first for use of plastic-based synthetic fibres, in the same category.

In the highest category are only two brands, based on their commitment to stop using virgin synthetic fibres by 2030 and generally reduce the use of both virgin and recycled fibres to less than 1% by 2025. Hugo Boss is one of them, as it plans to eliminate polyester and polyamide by 2030. But this clashes with the fact that it has raised the use of synthetic fibres by 143% between 2020 and 2023, according to the study.

Scrolling down the list of the brands that use the most synthetic fibres, in first place is Inditex (with 212,866 tonnes) followed by Pvh, which controls Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein (36,280 tonnes, +20% compared to 2022) and the Catalan group Mango. But on the list are mainly large retail chains such as the German C&A and the British Tesco, Boohoo and Sainsbury's.

Then, there is the Shein chapter: it is true that, by not disclosing its numbers, it is not at the top of the above-mentioned list, but the report emphasises that it is very likely to be, since it is now the largest player in fast fashion and also has the highest percentage (82%) of products made from synthetic fibres in its catalogue. In its recentsustainability report, the Chinese giant admitted: "Our absolute emissions grew from 9.17 million tonnes of CO2 gas equivalent in 2022 to 16.68 million in 2023. We recognise that we still have a lot of work to do on our impact and are committed to making progress'.

Meanwhile, European fast-fashion bigwigs have invested in systems to abate the release of microplastics, Inditex financing the Air Fibre Wash system, which extracts microfibres during production and thus prevents their release during household washing, and H&M, through its Foundation, in a technology developed with the Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel that uses sound waves to separate microplastics from water.

Patagonia, for its part, has the goal of eliminating virgin materials from fossil sources by next year, and to use 50 per cent of synthetic materials from waste by 2025. And it should not be forgotten how the Californian company is the only one to have invested in extending the life of its products, through the Worn Wear programme, as well as having developed, in collaboration with Samsung Electronics, new filters for domestic washing machines, capable of collecting microfibres and which, after launching in Korea in 2023, should also arrive in Europe and North America in the near future.

Fibre manufacturers For their part, aware that they are at the centre of this kind of criticism, synthetic fibre manufacturers argue that this type of fabric allows fashion to be truly democratic, as they make it accessible even to those who do not have sufficient budget to buy natural fibres. Not only that: natural fibres have a considerable impact on natural resources, e.g. soil and water consumption, and cannot potentially be recycled indefinitely, as some types of synthetics can. In Italy, for example, realities of excellence such as Radici Group, Aquafil and Fulgar have developed advanced technologies to produce synthetic yarns by recovering waste and refuse (such as fishing nets and disused tyres) that would otherwise pollute water and soil.

In any case, even though the issue is open and complex, the report does not limit itself to denouncing, but also puts forward proposals, if not solutions, taking its cue from the more than 30 legislative measures concerning textile production that are expected in the next two to four years worldwide. Companies, the NGO suggests, should set certain and measurable goals, such as reducing the use of synthetic fibres by 50% by 2030, and prioritise their elimination from children's clothing (following the example of Uniqlo, a brand of the Japanese Fast Retailing group) and for expectant mothers. In addition, take measures to curb the production of plastic microfibres already from the production of yarns and fabrics, not leaving this task only to the consumption stage, and keep away from greenwashing by making data on their activities transparent and accessible.

Of course, the path to better sustainability is also written by consumer behaviour. It is to them that Changing Markets Foundation addresses when it invites them to be more informed and therefore make more conscious purchases. And buy less, buy only what they really need, perhaps second-hand, and seek repair and reuse services.

Following the publication of the report and this article, the Inditex group sent a note which we publish in full below: "Inditex is committed to reducing the use of synthetic fibres that lack a specific function; however, it is currently difficult to eliminate them completely without compromising fabric performance. For example, synthetic fibres have relevant functionality in some specific garments, such as jackets or high-strength outwear. In order to preserve performance and durability and not harm the environment, Inditex is studying innovative textile-to-textile solutions and bio-based alternatives derived from second- and third-generation raw materials.
Our Fibres Plan foresees a greater commitment on our part to using low-impact fibres: we estimate that by 2030 around 25% of the textile fibres used in our products will be made up of new-generation fibres, which are not yet available on an industrial scale and which we are helping to develop. In the short term, all the polyester we use will come from alternative sources (recycled, innovative, etc.) by 2025. Each year we report the percentage of raw materials used in our products in our Annual Report. Page 236 of the document shows the latest figures for the percentage of synthetic fibres used in 2023. This percentage has remained virtually unchanged over the last five years: 38% in 2023; 40% in 2022; 36% in 2021; 38% in 2020; 38% in 2019. At the same time, the use of recycled synthetic fibres has increased significantly in recent years, from 1% of total synthetic fibres in 2019 to 40% in 2023'.

Shein also sent a note regarding the publication of the report, which we publish below: "At Shein, we are committed to continuously improving our sustainability practices. As a member of the Textile Exchange, we follow their guidelines to develop our preferred fibre strategy and accelerate the sourcing of low-impact materials. As polyester continues to represent the majority of our fibre portfolio for Shein branded products, we are undertaking several efforts to reduce our dependence on virgin polyester. We have set a goal to convert 31% of the polyester used in Shein brand products to recycled polyester by 2030. We are advancing towards this goal, with recycled polyester accounting for 7.9% of the polyester directly sourced for Shein branded products in 2023, up from less than 1% in 2022.
As part of our recycled polyester strategy, we have begun to focus on the use of recycled polyester from fabric to fabric. In 2023, Shein launched a multi-year research partnership with Donghua University, a university specialising in engineering and materials science, to study how to promote commercially scalable production of recycled polyester fibres through mechanical and chemical recycling. Over 100,000 kg of woven-to-woven recycled polyester fabric will be incorporated into Shein-branded apparel products by 2023. To catalyse the industry's efforts towards circular fashion, Shein also announced the launch of a Circularity Fund, committing to provide an initial capitalisation of EUR 200 million to promote research, development and innovation in circularity for the fashion industry. The Fund will invest in start-ups and companies across Europe and the UK that are developing next-generation technologies and solutions in circularity, such as fabric-to-fabric recycled material innovation.
We recognise the need for the entire textile community to act collaboratively to tackle fibre fragmentation. Shein therefore contributes to collective research on fibre fragmentation as a member of the Microfibre Consortium and signatory to the Microfibre 2030 Commitment.