Back in Pondicherry, amongst French villas and botanical gardens

It was ruled by various South Indian dynasties, including the Pallavas, the Cholas and the Pandyas, before coming under the control of the Sultan of Bijapur, thus beginning to experience the vibrant atmosphere of trade with Portuguese and Danish merchants. With the arrival of the French in the 17th century, its fate changed radically and Pondicherry began to host trading posts dealing in various goods, eventually becoming the capital of French India: administratively, it remained French territory until its official annexation to the Indian Union in 1954. What, according to legend, was believed to be the home of the revered sage Agasthya stands out from other enclaves in India and in the state of Tamil Nadu, and still reflects the division between the French and Indian quarters. Two decades ago, its name was changed to Puducherry: it means ‘new village’. The beaches where one can swim in the morning and the colonial-style villas alternate with the numerous ashrams where one can devote oneself to achieving harmony between body and mind. The Sri Aurobindo Ashram, in particular, attracts those who love to meditate – an activity at the heart of life in the nearby community of Auroville, where one is always struck by the architecture of the Matrimandir, the Temple of the Mother. Wandering through the French Quarter, after visiting the War Memorial, you come upon the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception and the Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. The Pondicherry Museum is also of interest as it tells the story of these places, which are also prized for their lush vegetation, as can be seen at the local Botanical Gardens. At sunset, head back to the oceanfront, perhaps choosing between Paradise Beach, Rock Beach and Serenity Beach, before meeting up on the Seafront Promenade and in front of the statue of Gandhi. The following day, you can take in the full artistic splendour of the religious sites by visiting the Sri Gokilambal Thirukameswar Temple, the Varadaraja Perumal Temple and the Meeran Mosque, considered the oldest in Pondicherry. From there, by car, you can then head to the shores of Lake Ousteri – home to very rare nesting birds – and Raj Niwas, the historic residence of the Lieutenant Governor of Pondicherry, before driving on to the old lighthouse, where this journey south through this enchanting country comes to an end.