In India, captivated by the infectious magic of southern Hyderabad

2/5Great Journeys

The architecture of Hampi, set amongst rice paddies and granite hills

Set like a jewel amidst the rugged, rocky landscape of Hampi stood Vijayanagara, the capital of a mighty Hindu kingdom that flourished between the 14th and 16th centuries. The grandeur and beauty of its temples and palaces, as well as its royal pavilions, remain intact despite the fact that many of them now lie in ruins. The craftsmen, particularly the stonemasons, were masterful in their creativity and meticulous in their craftsmanship, as evidenced by the remains of the Virupaksha and Vijaya Vittala temples, the legendary Stone Chariot and the elegant Lotus Mahal. This immense open-air museum, which covers almost 29 square kilometres, is divided into the Sacred Centre and the Royal Centre: it is customary to hire a bicycle to travel between the monuments against the backdrop of the granite hills, which ‘come alive’ especially at sunset and can be climbed via the paths leading to the summits – which are often simply gigantic boulders. All around, the rice paddies carved out along the course of the Tungabhadra River form liquid mosaics criss-crossed by rafts on which traders and farmers travel. Water buffaloes are their faithful companions during their working days. It is precisely these ancient and ingenious water systems that have helped secure Hampi’s place on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Among the most artistically daring and significant structures, the Stone Chariot undoubtedly stands out: this is the name given to the shrine dedicated to Garuda, situated within the Vijaya Vittala complex. Carved from granite, it rests on large stone wheels, which give it the appearance of a moving chariot. As for the sculptures, one is captivated by the Ugra Narasimha, depicting Lord Narasimha; carved from a single block of granite, this statue stands almost seven metres tall: the deity is portrayed with a ferocious expression that is truly awe-inspiring.

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