San Miguel de Allende and the magic of timeless villages

Leaving the capital behind, the itinerary continues eastwards towards San Miguel de Allende, which is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Known for the majestic parish church of San Miguel Arcángel, with its pink sandstone spires reminiscent of the European Gothic style, the town is a hub for artists, art galleries and boutique hotels housed in former stately homes. San Miguel is a favourite destination for weddings and special events. Wedding processions here take on a unique character: they are the ‘callejoneadas nuziali’, led by the ‘mojigangas’ (large papier-mâché figures that dance amongst the crowd) and accompanied by a charming little donkey carrying tequila to offer to the guests, all set to the music of mariachi bands. The surrounding area is home to the network of the six Pueblos Mágicos, villages protected by the Mexican government to preserve their great historical and cultural value. Among these, Dolores Hidalgo stands out, considered the cradle of national independence, famous both for its fine Talavera-style glazed ceramics and for its characteristic artisanal ice creams in unusual flavours, such as mole or tequila. Continuing the journey, one comes to Mineral de Pozos, once a thriving mining centre and now a hauntingly beautiful ‘ghost town’, where the silence of the ancient ruins blends with the scent of lavender fields and the sound of pre-Hispanic musical instruments still treasured by the locals. The route also takes in Yuriria, a town known for its large artificial lagoon dating back to the 16th century, dominated by the imposing silhouette of the majestic, fortified former convent of San Agustín, which harks back to the era of the region’s early evangelisation. Rounding off the rich array of the state’s magical villages are: Jalpa de Cánovas, with its lush orchards and historic period estate; Salvatierra, rich in refined civil and religious architecture; and Comonfort, renowned for its ancestral craftsmanship in the creation of molcajetes, the traditional mortars made of volcanic stone.