Aperitifs

The orange wave of the Spritz is now a symbol made in Italy

The success of the last 20 years has led the Aperol plant in Novi Ligure to go from producing 30 million bottles to 360 million and to inaugurate a line to grow by another 30%.

Vino nella mixology? Una storia lunga e nobile, ma occhio agli sprechi

3' min read

3' min read

Until not so long ago, 'Made in Italy' was associated with a specific colour: red. Ferrari red in the first place, but also - to stay in the automotive sector - Alfa Romeo red or, changing sector, Valentino red. For some years now, a second colour has been added to red: the orange of the Spritz, of the Aperol Spritz in particular. It is an orange wave that sweeps through the historic centres of Italian cities pressed by overtourism with Spritzes camping out on the tables of bars, the many seaside resorts, beaches, terraces overlooking the sea and those in mountain resorts. In fact, the orange wine glass with a stem, filled with ice, with a slice of orange is now a fixed presence even in the most popular TV series, from The White Lotus to Emily in Paris and many others, giving foreign settings an unmistakable Italian touch.

An unstoppable, allMade in Italy success story that has matured over the last twenty years, even though both Spritz and Aperol are many years older. The Spritz - as one not infrequently hears barmen tell it - originated in the 19th century with the Austro-Hungarian militia stationed in the north-east of the country. Italian wine, even white wine, was too alcoholic for those soldiers and so they began to dilute it with mineral water. Over time bitter was added and mineral water was replaced by soda or tonic water, but in the Triveneto region the Spritz is still made with still wine today.

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In the early 2000s, the intuition - attributed to a Venetian bacàro - to make it with Prosecco (which in turn was starting its own whirlwind parabola of growth in production and market) and was fully espoused by Campari which, in the meantime, in 2003, had taken over Aperol and boasted (under the Cinzano brand) its own Prosecco production.

'Aperol was born in 1919 and Campari took it over in 2003,' explains the managing director house of aperitfs of the Campari Group (3 billion turnover 2024, 15% achieved in Italy), Andrea Neri. 'Starting in 2009 we structured a strategy centred on the aperitif and the consumers' need for a less alcoholic and less demanding drink than cocktails but more sophisticated than a simple glass of wine or a beer. We took the Veneto Spritz, hitherto presented in classic glasses, and elevated its image with a more elegant and premium 'drink' garnished with orange slices, to bring it closer to cocktails. Thus choosing a price positioning higher than a beer but lower than a cocktail. A not excessively alcoholic proposal (around 8 degrees), sparkling, easy to drink, and we took this product out of Triveneto, first throughout Italy and then Europe'.

Abroad, we started in Austria and Bavaria, where there was a segment of consumers from Italy who were already familiar with the Spritz, and then the range gradually expanded. 'In 15 years,' adds Neri, 'Aperol Spritz has become the most widely drunk spirit in Italy and, with its simple recipe (3 parts Prosecco, 2 parts Aperol and 1 part soda), has conquered continental Europe, the UK and the world'.

Crucial, in fact, was the simplicity of the recipe. 'Because while in Italy the aperitif is a ritual to be consumed outside the home,' adds Neri, 'in other countries it is a home habit. So it becomes important to be able to count on a product that is easy to prepare. Today, the Aperol Spritz is the eighth most consumed cocktail in the world'.

The success has been overwhelming. 'Suffice it to say that when Campari acquired Aperol,' says Neri, 'in our plant in Novi Ligure about 30 million bottles were produced. By 2023 production had reached 360 million, a 12-fold increase, with Aperol being the best-selling product globally. Last year a new production line (the seventh) was inaugurated in Novi Ligure, which is estimated to increase the number of bottles by another 30%'.

Growth was followed by the development of international markets. "Twenty years ago," continues the Campari manager, "our production was on two markets, Italy and Germany. Today three quarters of the bottles go to six markets: Italy, Germany, Austria, the USA, the UK and France. With the US in third position after Italy and Germany'.
And at Campari they certainly don't want to stop there. "We are present in Australia," the manager goes on to explain, "and we are growing in South East Asian countries such as Thailand, Singapore and Vietnam, but the main objective is China. A market that we are studying and where we think the good penetration of beer can help us. Because in Italy and Europe we have established ourselves as a sparkling alternative to beer and we now count on repeating the same path in China'.

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