Yanar Dag and Ateshgah: the guardians of the eternal flame

Travelling northwards along the Absheron Peninsula, a short distance from Baku, one realises why Azerbaijan has historically been known as the ‘Land of Fire’. At Yanar Dag, the ‘Mountain of Fire’, a natural flame constantly licks the base of a sandstone hill, fuelled by underground gas pockets seeping through cracks in the rock. This phenomenon, which never goes out, even in rain or snow, was described as far back as Marco Polo’s travels. Not far away stands the evocative Ateshgah Fire Temple, an ancient place of worship once frequented by Hindu and Zoroastrian pilgrims, built around natural gas springs. The best time to plan this excursion is in the late afternoon, to witness the contrast between the flames and the twilight.