Between Hungary and Saxony: a late-summer journey through beautiful Europe
From Lake Balaton to Tokaj: the other side of Hungary, amongst vineyards and villages
Lake Balaton, some 100 kilometres from Budapest, is the ideal starting point for discovering a rural, unhurried side of Hungary, where vineyards and small villages create a landscape very different from that of the capital. On its northern shore, the Badacsony region features a mix of nature reserves, ancient volcanic cones and rows of vines: this is where Olaszrizling, one of the area’s iconic white wines, is produced. A little further north, the volcanic hills of Nagy-Somló are home to vineyards and historic wineries that make the most of the basalt soil to produce Juhfark, the so-called ‘honeymoon wine’. Lake Balaton is also a destination to enjoy with the family and by bike, with its beaches, scenic routes, the spectacle of the lavender fields (in late spring) and various vantage points. Tihany, with its abbey overlooking the water, is one of the most picturesque stops, whilst in Tapolca, you can explore the lake caves by boat. For an in-depth experience of the home of Hungary’s great red wines and Cabernet Franc, set your sat-nav for Pannon, between Villány, Pécs and Szekszárd, whilst Villánykövesd catches the eye with its rows of colourful wine cellars. A few kilometres from the Austrian border, about two and a half hours’ drive from Lake Balaton, the Fertő-Hanság National Park offers unspoilt natural landscapes, ideal for hiking and birdwatching, and is set in a region that captivates with its elegant and relaxed charm. Sopron, in particular, is famous for its cobbled streets and historic buildings in pastel shades, inviting visitors to take a leisurely stroll amongst cafés, romantic views and the famous Torre del Fuoco, which offers a spectacular view of the surrounding area. At the opposite end of the country, north-east of Budapest, the wine route leads instead to the vineyards around Eger, which produce Egri Bikavér, ‘Bull’s Blood’, and towards Tokaj, a UNESCO region and the birthplace of Tokaji Aszú, the famous sweet wine made from botrytised grapes.
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