Food tourism

In Perugia, chocolate is an engine of development between taste and entrepreneurship

It took only a few months for the Chocolate City to win over the public: the reasons for the success of the world's largest cocoa hub

by Chiara Beghelli

Milano, il treno di cioccolato di 55 metri: è il più lungo del mondo

3' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

3' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

Under a sky of swift clouds, amidst the song of tropical birds and an unmistakable aroma, grow cacao trees full of fruit ready to be harvested. We are not in a South American forest, but in the large atrium that is the heart of the new City of Chocolate, an experiential museum in the historic centre of Perugia that since last November has become the largest hub in the world dedicated to the story and experience of one of the most beloved foods on the planet.

The Recovery of the Covered Market

After years of disuse, the modernist spaces of the Mercato Coperto, built in the 1930s to house the stalls of the Umbrian capital's merchants, had long been in search of a project that would bring them back to the centre of city life. And fortunately they found the insight of Eugenio Guarducci, the entrepreneur who in 1994 created Eurochocolate, the international event dedicated to chocolate, which over the years has transformed Perugia into a favourite destination for chocolate connoisseurs and which last year attracted over a million visitors to the city.

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By setting up a new company,Destinazione Cioccolato Srl, and by crowdfunding 198 investors, he signed a 30-year lease agreement with the municipality for the Mercato Coperto and invested 6 million euro in a project that is already a success just a few months after its launch: 'We have already registered 25,000 admissions, beyond our expectations,' says Guarducci.

Multimedia and multi-sensory path

A success generated by the City's own, peculiar formula, which offers both a in-depth and multiform account of cocoa and chocolate - with panels, showcases, multimedia and multi-sensory installations that tell its history and geography, also with the support of pieces from precious collections - as well as a 'chocolate factory' where one can make one's favourite bar, taste the different crus, buy the most famous creations together with the rarest in a huge Choco Shop. All embraced by a panorama that opens brightly over the wide Umbrian valley.

The art (also industrial) of cocoa processing

The story of the industrial history of chocolate is also original and compelling, from its earliest origins, the import of seeds by Hernán Cortés to Spain in the 16th century, to the birth of large companies in Switzerland and Belgium in the 19th and 20th centuries. And one discovers, or remembers, that Italia is also rich in chocolate districts: the one in Piedmont, with the Turin of the Savoy dynasty, where the bicerin and gianduiotto are born, but also Sicily with Modica ("where chocolate is produced as the Aztecs did", notes the entrepreneur), as well as lesser-known realities such as Tuscany, "with a district founded by the Medici and still populated by small, excellent and avant-garde companies", Guarducci continues.

The roots of Perugina

Perugia, in fact, has also been a capital of Italian chocolate, since in 1908, when Luisa and Annibale Spagnoli founded Perugina, to whose history the city dedicates ample space, even with a dress, signed for the occasion by Nicoletta Spagnoli, at the helm of the fashion company founded by her great-grandmother in 1928, inspired by chocolate with its brown velvet.

Nicoletta Spagnoli has also financed the restoration of the spaces that housed the first workshop of her ancestors, just a few steps away from the Mercato Coperto: it is called Lab, an acronym of the founders but also a reminder of its new function as a space dedicated to visits and workshops. Another gift to the city, since it was since 1915 that those premises had been closed, guardians of elements of industrial archaeology and an entrepreneurial history that deserved to be rediscovered.

Sustainability and Territory

The link with the city will also pass through projects that may involve other symbolic places in Perugia, from the National Gallery of Umbria to the Città della Domenica (another creature of the Spanish visionaries). The Chocolate City itself was built, in just eight months, almost entirely by Umbrian companies, "and together with the Foundation for Agricultural Education we will also valorise the new variety of the Franciscan round hazelnut, cultivated in the region, which we will use in our productions," explains Guarducci.

This is also where the focus is on the sustainability of the chocolate supply chain, to which the City devotes a large section: 'We have projects to support small producers, who are the vast majority and to whom the industry today reserves a minimal part of its earnings,' the entrepreneur continues. 'We want to raise awareness among visitors, to support conscious choices. Looking to the future, "the goal is to reach 300,000 visitors within three years, but also to create an international observatory on cocoa and chocolate and to take our model beyond the borders". The ways of chocolate, as its history teaches us, are infinite.

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