Modica and the architecture of the ‘slow life’

Heading back towards Modica, the town of IGP-certified chocolate and the ‘100 churches’ – a phrase that captures the incredible density of religious buildings and bell towers that characterise its charming historic centre, the cradle of late Sicilian Baroque and a UNESCO World Heritage Site – one finds oneself immersed in the ancient Jewish quarter of Cartellone. Here, 25 years ago, architect Viviana Haddad began a gentle revolution. Her Casa Talia pioneered the concept of ‘Slow Living’: a bespoke restoration of old houses transformed into apartment-style rooms overlooking the majesty of San Giorgio. In Modica, food is a living entity. Michelin-starred chef Accursio Craparo, in his Radici project, practises what he calls “true local sourcing”. It is not just about geographical proximity, but a deep appreciation of the ingredients, from sun-ripened tomatoes to wild herbs gathered near Palazzolo Acreide, transforming every dish into a meticulous narrative of the local area. The aim is to outline a fresh take on what the concept of a ‘trattoria’ represents today, underpinned by research, sustainability, the transformation of raw ingredients, and more streamlined and immediate cooking methods that give substance to a menu of dishes prepared to order that span the history of Sicily. Also worth noting is the city of Modica’s literary festival, Scenari, which returns from 25 June to 26 July for its fifth edition. For five consecutive weekends, the city’s squares, historic buildings and iconic landmarks will host meetings, performances and concerts dedicated to literature, journalism, music and current affairs.