A leisurely journey through Turkey in search of precious archaeological treasures

4/4Great Journeys

The house-shaped rock-cut tombs of Myra

Those holes in the rock look like hundreds of eyes gazing at you enigmatically. This is the effect created by Myra, now known as Demre, which can be reached via the coastal road linking Antalya to Fethiye: its Lycian rock-cut tombs resemble many small houses, mimicking the very shape of the wooden dwellings inhabited in the 5th century BC by that same people, complete with their finely carved ornamentation. Later, Greek-inspired ornamentation appeared on the façades of the tombs, followed by imitations of the temples found on this very site or depictions of episodes from the lives of warriors. The Roman-era theatre has also been well preserved, bearing traces of a pre-existing Hellenistic building: set amidst this enchanting natural landscape, fragrant with the scent of citrus fruits, stands the Byzantine-era Church of St Nicholas. Earthquakes, floods, alluvial deposits carried by the Demre stream, as well as Arab raids, were decisive factors in the decline of Myra: even as you walk along the path leading to the acropolis, you can enjoy a magnificent view of the ancient walls and the Demre plain. Furthermore, in the eastern part, you can visit another necropolis which is less frequently visited but equally fascinating for its appearance as a miniature city carved into the rock. Not far away, the marshy waters sometimes rise above the ruins, depositing a white veil over them that makes them look like ghosts: this happens at Letoon, where a sanctuary dedicated to Leto, mother of Apollo and Artemis, was established as early as the 5th century BC. The theatre is built into the hillside and once hosted the meetings of the Lycian Confederacy, whilst only the foundations of three temples remain. The mosaic in the eastern temple, facing the sea, features a depiction of a lyre and a bow in the cella, symbolising Apollo and Artemis respectively – the gods who, after all, inspired this journey.

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