In Capraia with the dolphins, all the way to Punta dello Zenobito

It is still a pleasure to arrive by boat in Capraia in early October, not least because, during the crossing, you can spot the marine mammals that inhabit the Pelagos International Sanctuary. This island, the third largest in the Tuscan Archipelago, boasts a truly sinuous elliptical shape stretching from Punta della Teglia to Punta dello Zenobito and was formed as a result of the activity of two volcanoes from different eras. Punta dello Zenobito and Cala Rossa in particular provide geological evidence of Capraia’s volcanic origin; the island was given this name by Greek settlers who arrived here from Phocaea, a city on the coast of Asia Minor, now known as Yenifoça, not far from the Turkish city of Izmir, although the first to officially name it as such was Pliny the Elder. In the past, it was entirely covered by a dense holm oak forest: so much so that the Etruscans came here to stock up on wood for the mines on Elba. It subsequently became part of the domains of the Republic of Pisa and was frequently raided by Ottoman corsair ships, forcing the Republic of Genoa—its new owner—to call upon Admiral Andrea Doria. The towers erected – even on Punta dello Zenobio, where the volcano had once erupted – served to defend it. Above all, the Fort of San Giorgio represents the heart of the island, where the lives of its three hundred inhabitants beat. Plant enthusiasts can set off along the Botanical Trail, which winds its way along the ancient Roman road, starting from the church of Santa Maria Assunta towards the village of Le Sughere, or beginning the route from the church of San Nicola towards the harbour, skirting the Palmento di San Leonardo: In fact, 650 plant species have been recorded on Capraia, 35 per cent of which are endemic. Alternatively, you can go birdwatching at the Stagnone. And you can stay at the rather charming hotel housed within the Fort of San Giorgio.