Art treasures in Troia

A September trip to Apulia should always begin at the Co-Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta in the village of Troia, in the province of Foggia. For in this sacred place one receives a sort of baptism into the beauty of the entire region, which is also famous for the Apulian Romanesque rose windows of its churches. The sea holds its warmth as if within a shell of foam. The first pomegranates dot the countryside alongside the prickly pears, resembling pinheads. And after a flurry of swimming – which is still very much possible throughout the month – the desire to discover the region’s artistic and natural treasures returns. So, the choice falls on Troia and its Co-Cathedral, founded in 1119 on the site of a pre-existing Byzantine building. The intricate design of the rose window is almost dizzying, creating the visual impression of whirling round and round, ceaselessly, amongst its openwork, separate segments. The carved animals bring to mind a vertical farm; the cattle, in particular, appear three-dimensional: sitting here at midday, when the high street is deserted, tucking into a focaccia fresh from the Zurlo bakery, whilst the taste of the espresso from Caffè Spadavecchia still lingers, conveys an aesthetic ecstasy that one will never forget. Nor should we forget the Church of San Basilio, which has early Christian origins and was rebuilt during the Byzantine period.