Campania: witches, bandits and truffles in the mountains of Sannio and Irpinia

Who said that white truffles are exclusive to Northern Italia? Autumn in Campania surprises the traveller with an unexpected, untamed side, where the woods are steeped in legend and the hills are bathed in the warm hues of falling leaves. Travelling along the historic borders that once separated the Kingdom of Naples from the Papal States, precisely between San Leucio del Sannio and Ceppaloni, in the province of Benevento – known as the ‘town of witches’ – history blurs into tales of brigands and janare (the witches of local folklore), and truffle hunting becomes an experience bordering on a magical ritual. A guided excursion through the local woods allows you to admire and gather truffles that have just emerged from the damp earth. The grand finale takes place at the table, for example at the ‘Terrazza’ restaurant in Ceppaloni, where Chef Aldo Calandro transforms the day’s harvest into an aperitif or a signature apericena, showcasing the truffle paired with the great white and red wines of the Sannio region, from Falanghina to Aglianico. Also in Campania, a visit to Bagnoli Irpino is unmissable; it is famous for its truffle fairs dedicated to black and white truffles amidst the woods of the Picentini Mountains. The next edition will take place over the weekends of 23–25 October and 29–31 October. For those setting off from Naples, full-day private tours are available in the Monti Picentini Regional Park: you’ll head to the slopes of Monte Terminio to take part in a truffle hunt accompanied by expert truffle hunters and their dogs, followed by tastings of local cheeses paired with freshly foraged truffles and a lunch featuring mountain specialities, washed down with local wine and artisanal liqueurs.